Freckle creams

The melanin pigment is usually distributed fairly evenly across the skin, but sometimes clusters of keratinocytes with increased pigment content form in the epidermal layer – freckles. And an effective freckle cream can make them less noticeable.

Since active exposure to sunlight, particularly medium-wave ultraviolet radiation (UVB), increases the synthesis of melanin, freckle cream should protect the skin from the sun.

Indications for the use of freckle cream

There are no medical indications for using freckle cream, as freckles are absolutely harmless to health. The only reason for using bleaching agents is an irresistible desire to get rid of "sun marks" or at least lighten them.

However, it should be borne in mind that there is melanosis - epidermal melanin dyschromia in the form of hyperpigmented spots on the skin, arising both for genetic reasons and during hormonal changes in the body (during pregnancy, in old age), as well as with some pathologies of the adrenal cortex and liver diseases. Read more in the publication - Skin pigmentation disorders

Pharmacodynamics

The action of freckle creams that contain the phenolic derivative hydroquinone (Achromin, A-Ret HC, Expigment, etc.) is based on its ability to reduce local melanogenesis by inhibiting thyrokinase, an enzyme responsible for the production of melanin and other pigments in the body. In addition, hydroquinone inhibits the production of nucleic acids in pigment cells (melanocytes).

In addition to hydroquinone, the A-Ret HC anti-freckle face cream contains synthetic corticosteroids (hydrocortisone) and the retinoid tretinoin. Hydrocortisone is an anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic agent that penetrates the membranes of epidermal cells and stimulates protein-enzyme synthesis, activating intracellular metabolism. And retinoic acid (tretinoin) and all its derivatives promote increased synthesis of skin collagen and exfoliation (peeling) of keratin skin cells, including excessively pigmented ones.

Expigment cream has a very high concentration of hydroquinone – 4%, and uses avobenzone and camphor as sunscreen.

The pharmacodynamics of hydroquinone-free creams is also based on the suppression of thyrokinase, which is provided by other substances.

Thus, the Ideal Whitening (Belita-Vitex) anti-freckle face cream lightens melanin due to the presence of bearberry leaf extract, rich in phenolic glycoside arbutin (hydroquinone-β-D-glycoside), i.e. natural glycosylated hydroquinone. Citric and ferulic acids present in the cream are antioxidants and tyrosinase inhibitors.

This whitening product also uses the Lumiskin complex (Sederma, France), which reduces the activity of tyrosinase and consists of: an extract of the bark of the South American tree Peumus boldus (diacetyl boldine), an improved version of silicone (Crodamol) and ethoxylated fatty alcohol (emulsifier Brij S10).

The Kora cream helps lighten freckles, which is provided by ascorbic acid (vitamin C suppresses the formation of melanin), extracts of licorice root (contains the phytoestrogen glabridin, which inhibits the production of pigments) and bergenia crassifolia (contains the glycoside arbutin).

In Depiwhite Advanced Depigmenting cream, hyperpigmentation is affected by such components as synthetic arbutin, parsley extract (contains luteolin, beta-carotene, vitamin C) in combination with kojic acid. This acid (a by-product of brewer's rice fermentation) enhances the anti-pigmentation properties of other components, most often used in the form of more stable kojic acid dipalmitate. Depiwhite Advanced cream also contains exfoliants - exfoliating alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), primarily lactic and glycolic.

Eveline cream for freckles and pigment spots also contains among its active ingredients extracts of licorice root, parsley, lemon, lactic acid and ammonium lactate (synthetic lactic acid), which has keratolytic properties.

In addition to the already mentioned ascorbic and kojic acids, licorice root extract and alpha-hydroxy acids, the Meladerm Skin Lightener anti-freckle face cream contains the skin-lightening cosmetic complex Gigawhite (manufacturer Centerchem, USA). This complex consists of extracts of peppermint, lemon balm, wheat germ, wild mallow, lady's mantle, primrose, yarrow, and speedwell. It also includes alpha-arbutin, mulberry root and Indian gooseberry (emblica) extracts, vitamins B3 and E, lecithin, glycerin, water, preservatives and several types of parabens.

The Swiss cream for freckles and pigment spots GigaWhite 3-Day Whitening Cream and its Polish analogue Clarena Giga White Day have almost identical compositions.

The composition of the cream Clarilys (Lysaskin Laboratoires, France) also includes vitamin C, arbutin and exfoliating fruit acids. In addition, this product contains the substance Urodium (a mixture of urea and sodium chloride), which promotes deeper penetration of the cream into the skin.

Sunscreen cream against freckles Photoderma AR Cream SPF provides photoprotection of the skin (including in the presence of rosacea and vascular mesh) and has in the list of active components vegetable oils, extract of kelp and ginkgo biloba, soy lecithin, glycerin. And as substances serving for protection from ultraviolet radiation, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate are used.

Floresan SPF 30 barrier cream made from natural ingredients contains calendula extract, coconut, almond and jojoba oils; it also contains silicone and dye. The waterproof Floresan full block barrier cream (from sunburn) contains tocopherol and aloe vera extract, which nourish the skin.

Names of creams for freckles

Today, there are hundreds of skin lightening cosmetic products on the market, and it is impossible to make a list that includes all the names of freckle creams. This review primarily includes cosmeceutical whitening products, many of which have sun protection complexes - UVA and UVB filters. If the cream is a sunscreen, the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) level should be indicated on the packaging.

Names of freckle creams containing the bleaching component hydroquinone (para-dioxybenzene):

• Achromin (Bulgaria) or identical Astramin (Russian manufacturer);
• A-Ret HC cream (Menarini Group, Italy);
• Expigment cream (Orva Pharma, Türkiye), etc.

Creams for freckles and pigment spots without hydroquinone:

• Ideal Whitening anti-freckle whitening cream and the identical in composition Intensive whitening cream from the Vitex Pharmacos series (Belita-Vitex, Belarus);
• cream Cora (RF);
• Depiwhite Advanced Depigmenting cream (ACM, France);
• Eveline whitening cream (Eveline Cosmetics, Poland);
• anti-freckle face cream Meladerm Skin Lightener (Civant Skin Care, USA);
• Clarilys cream (Lysaskin Laboratoires, France);
• cream for freckles and age spots GigaWhite 3-Day Whitening Cream (Switzerland);
• whitening cream Clarena Giga White Day Cream (Clarena, Poland).

Sunscreen for freckles: Floresan Barrier Cream SPF 30 (Floresan, Russia), Full Block Barrier Cream from Tanning (same brand), Photoderma AR Cream SPF (Bioderma, France), etc. See also - Sunscreens

Anti-aging Smile cream – Givenchy Smile'n Repair High-Efficiency Firming Cream (France) – is not an anti-freckle product, although it contains UVA-UVB filters (SPF15).

How to use freckle creams

It is recommended to use the whitening cream for freckles Achromin (Astramin), A-Ret HC, Expigment (containing hydroquinone) twice a day (morning and evening); apply a small amount of cream to cleansed skin (only to hyperpigmented areas), rubbing in lightly.

Ideal Whitening anti-freckle face cream and Cora cream are recommended to be used every day, without specifying the time and number of applications. There is also a warning that sunscreens with UV filters should be used.

Depiwhite Advanced Depigmenting cream for freckles and pigment spots is applied to clean skin (in the pigmentation area) at night - once a day. The recommended duration of use can vary from two months to six months, depending on the dynamics of positive changes.

For maximum effect, whitening creams Eveline, Clarilys, Swiss GigaWhite 3-Day Whitening Cream and face cream for freckles Meladerm Skin Lightener are used in the morning and evening, thoroughly massaging the skin until the applied product is completely absorbed. And the Polish protective cream Giga White Day Cream is used once a day (in the morning).

The method of application of sunscreen cream Photoderma AR Cream SPF involves

Apply it to the skin of the face every two hours. The Floresan SPF 30 barrier cream is used in a similar way.

Interactions with other drugs include the fact that when using any of the listed bleaching creams for freckles, you should avoid aggressive products that can dry out or irritate the skin: scrubs, alcohol-containing lotions, soaps, etc.

Contraindications for use

Freckle cream containing hydroquinone is contraindicated for dry skin, damage to the epidermis and any dermatological diseases, a history of allergic reactions, and problems with the liver or kidneys.

Manufacturers of A-Ret HC cream indicate such contraindications for the use of this product as allergy to sulfites (the product contains them in inactive ingredients), pregnancy and chronic adrenal cortex insufficiency (hypocorticism).

Despite local application, the use of freckle creams during pregnancy and breastfeeding is in most cases undesirable, and products containing hydroquinone are contraindicated.

Many whitening creams contain either retinoic acid (tretinoin) or its derivative tretinol, which have teratogenic and embryotoxic properties. Therefore, their use during pregnancy is contraindicated.

It is worth paying attention to special products intended for expectant mothers. There are enough of such products, for example, Helan Crema Viso Antimacchie, a sunscreen (SPF 50+) for the face against pigment spots, which is part of the Linea Mamma series for pregnant women, produced by the Italian company HELAN. Also read - Whitening creams for pigment spots

[ 1 ]

Side effects of freckle creams

In the European Union, hydroquinone is banned from use in cosmetics because studies have shown it to be potentially carcinogenic when applied to the skin. And long-term use of hydroquinone damages pigment cells and can lead to exogenous ochronosis (when areas of the skin turn bluish-black).

In the United States, hydroquinone freckle bleaching cream is sold as an over-the-counter drug, but with a hydroquinone concentration of no more than 2%; higher concentrations require a prescription from a dermatologist.

Other side effects of freckle creams containing hydroquinone include:

Include: increased sensitivity of the skin to sunlight, hyperemia and hyperpigmentation, skin irritation and contact dermatitis, deterioration of the skin condition at the site of application (the skin becomes thick and bumpy, comedones appear).

Italian facial cream for freckles A-Ret HC, according to the instructions, can cause redness, peeling, burning, dryness and itching of the skin at the site of application. The manufacturers claim that the potential negative side effect of repeated use of hydrocortisone counteracts the positive effect of tretinoin, so that thinning of the skin and damage to collagen are extremely rare.

The most likely side effects of freckle creams with tretinoin or tretinol are the appearance of itchy redness (up to erythema), increased peeling of the skin, and the development of acne.

Skin irritation and dermatitis may occur when using creams containing kojic acid.

Storage conditions

Creams with hydroquinone (Achromin, etc.) should be stored in a dark place at a temperature of up to +25°C. Other creams are stored under the same conditions.

The expiration date is indicated on the packaging of the creams and on the instruction leaflets (if any).

If you have tried a lot of different products to whiten heavily pigmented areas of the skin, and think that no freckle cream will help, read the tips - How to get rid of freckles?