Facial creams with retinol

Today, face creams with retinol may contain not only a synthetic analogue of the antioxidant vitamin A with the technical names retinol, retinol acetate or retinyl palmitate, but also retinoids in the form of trans-retinoic acid tretinoin, third-generation retinoid adapalene, etc.

These substances are modifications of retinol, so all pharmaceutical and cosmetic products based on them act on the skin in the same way.

Indications retinol face creams

The main indications for the use of face cream with retinol: combating acne, vulgar and confluent acne, papulopustular and comedonic acne. Pharmaceutical creams with retinol or retinoic acid derivatives are used in the complex local treatment of ichthyosis, psoriasis and dermatoses with hyperkeratinization.

Cosmetic creams containing retinol and retinoids are recommended for the care of aging skin (anti-aging): they can reduce such visible signs of aging as wrinkles, flabbiness, age lentigines (pigment spots).

Release form

Pharmaceutical products include retinol creams for the face against acne and pimples:

• 0.05% Tretinoin cream (other trade names – Locacid, Airol, Airol Roche, Retin-A, Atralin, Atralin Renova, Tretin X, Ahnoten, Avita);
• Isotrexin (Isotrex);
• 0.1% Adapalene cream (synonyms: Adaklin, Differin, Klenzit).

Here are some names of face creams with retinol, which are cosmetic products for skin care:

• Ultra Lift Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream is a night cream for aging skin from the SkinActive series by Garnier. And the composition contains pro-retinol, which is a trademark of a vitamin A derivative produced by L'Oreal.
• Vichy face cream with retinol – LiftActiv Retinol HA Plumping Care and LiftActiv Retinol HA Night Total Wrinkle Plumping Care by Vichy Laboratoires (France). These are products for the care of aging skin; the composition also contains hyaluronic acid.
• RoC face cream with retinol – RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream and cream for the skin around the eyes RoC Retinol Correxion Sensitive Eye Cream (France).
• Night cream Retinol night revitalizer (Lumene, Finland).
• Demax Retinol Active (Japanese company Demax) with sodium hyaluronate, vitamins C and E, soy lecithin and grape seed oil.
• Creams made in the USA – Retinol A (Life Flo Health), night cream for the face StriVectin-AR (Advanced Dermatology) with pro-retinol.
• Multi-component face cream with retinol of Russian production - "Black Pearl" of the BIO-program series (for age categories 36+, 46+, 56+), produced by the company "Kalina".

Inexpensive retinol creams for the face are Ultra Lift Anti-Wrinkle (Garnier) and Black Pearl. If you use retinoid-containing creams, you must definitely use sunscreen (SPF 30 and above). Dermatologists also warn that if you have very thin and sensitive skin, it is better to avoid retinol creams for the area around the eyes (above the bone of the eye sockets).

[ 1 ]

Pharmacodynamics

The mechanism of action of topical retinoids, in particular retinol – a bioactive form of vitamin A – is due to the ability of their molecules to penetrate the epidermis and bind to specific nucleic cell receptors (RAR-gamma and RXR-alpha) to form paired heterodimers. The heterodimeric complex binds to DNA elements that regulate the activity of its transcription, and the differentiation program of dermal cells changes.

As a result, after using a face cream with retinol, the proliferation of papillary cells of the skin is activated, leading to thickening of the epidermis; the synthesis of tissue enzymes that prevent premature death of keratinocytes increases; the stratum corneum of the skin thickens; the production of glycosaminoglycans (compounds that retain moisture in the skin) increases.

In the presence of acne, retinol reduces the activity of sebaceous gland cells and the adhesion of keratin in the follicles, which leads to a reduction in skin rashes. And the proliferation of dermal cells creates favorable conditions for the restoration of its outer layer.

In addition, new skin cells can produce collagen proteins of types I and III. And by blocking UV-induced activation of nuclear transcription factors AP-1 and NF-kB, retinol and all retinoids slow down the synthesis of the skin pigment melanin.

Retinol face cream for acne and pimples Isotrexin (Isotrex), in addition to isotretinoin (an isomer of tretinoin), contains the antibiotic erythromycin, which causes the death of Propionebacterium acnes - a gram-positive anaerobic bacterium involved in the appearance of acne.

[ 2 ], [ 3 ]

Pharmacokinetics

When retinol creams are applied to the skin surface, the degree of its systemic absorption is insignificant. Protein binding is less than 95%; half-life is 0.5-2 hours.

The use of retinol products once within 24 hours leaves a minimal trace amount of it in the blood plasma, which is transformed in the liver and excreted through the intestines.

[ 4 ], [ 5 ]

Dosing and administration

Tretinoin cream should be applied in a thin layer to acne and pimples (without rubbing) - once a day for a maximum of half an hour, with a gradual increase in the duration of the product's effect to six hours. The remains of the cream are washed off with water. The course of treatment can last from two weeks to three months.

Isotrexin cream can be used twice a day for two months.

Adapalene cream is applied once a day (in the evening, at least 60 minutes before bedtime).

Cosmetic face creams with retinol are used 2-3 times a week (at night) during the first 14 days; every other day during the next two weeks. After 1-1.5 months, you can feel the first results (smoothing of expression wrinkles, lightening of spots, increased skin elasticity). But it should be borne in mind that as soon as the use of the cream is stopped, the positive effect disappears.

[ 6 ], [ 7 ], [ 8 ], [ 9 ], [ 10 ]

Contraindications

Both pharmaceutical and cosmetic face creams with retinol are contraindicated in case of increased skin sensitivity; inflammatory processes, wounds and burns; in the presence of gallstones, inflammation of the pancreas. Retinol face cream for acne is not used for children and adolescents under 12 years of age.

Use during pregnancy and lactation is contraindicated (according to FDA criteria, hazard level C). Creams with retinoids should not be used by women who are planning a pregnancy.

Side effects retinol face creams

All retinol creams can cause side effects such as:

• redness of the skin (up to erythema) with a feeling of internal heat;
• drying and slight peeling of the skin;
• burning and itching;
• dermatosis;
• swelling of the skin at the site of application of the cream;
• hyperpigmentation and increased sensitivity of the skin to ultraviolet rays.

To reduce the side effects of retinol facial creams, do not apply them immediately after a hot shower, bath, or significant physical activity.

These symptoms can be reduced by applying a moisturizer.

Overdose

Excessive application of retinol cream does not lead to faster or better results, but at the same time, severe skin reactions may occur: redness, peeling, discomfort.

Interactions with other drugs

Retinol face cream for acne, as well as cosmetics based on retinoids, are incompatible with diuretics, oral antibacterial drugs, sulfinamides, and neuroleptics of the chlorpromazine group.

Avoid applying retinol creams or other topical medications to your skin.

[ 11 ], [ 12 ]

Storage conditions

Pharmaceutical facial creams with retinol (Tretinoin, Isotrexin, Adapalene, etc.) should be stored at room temperature in a dark place.

[ 13 ]

Shelf life

The shelf life of these drugs is two years.