Retinol is the first in a line of vitamins for the skin

The sad experience of the Eskimos and the successful experience of the Egyptians was explained only in the middle of the 20th century. In 1930, Moore synthesized retinol from carotenoids and began to study its effect on the body. And only in 1943 was it finally proven that it was retinol that was the culprit of the misfortunes of the fearless Arctic explorers and the last hope of the blind Egyptians. The article by Moore and Rohdal, published in the Biochemical Journal, was truly sensational. It turned out that the polar bear liver contains so much retinol (18,000-27,000 IU/g) that the consumption of even a small piece (say, 250 g) exceeds the daily norm of retinol by more than 1000 times.

A deficiency of retinol is no less dangerous than its excess. Insufficient retinol intake eventually leads to irreversible loss of vision, decreased resistance to infection, the emergence of all sorts of skin problems and even death. Scientists have called substances necessary for normal life and even for the very existence of the human body "vitamins" (from the Latin vita - life) to emphasize their importance. Retinol was the first in their series, receiving the honorary title of vitamin A.

Cells are very sensitive to the concentration of retinol, and any, even minor deviation from the norm affects their vital functions. The mammalian body has a reliable regulation system that allows monitoring and maintaining the concentration of retinol at the proper level. Vitamin A is synthesized in the cells of the intestinal mucosa from beta-carotene, which comes with plant food. Here, with the participation of the enzyme dioxygenase, beta-carotene is split into two molecules of retinal, which are then restored to retinol. The amount of synthesized retinol is strictly regulated to prevent intoxication of the body. Then retinol enters the liver, where it is deposited in stellate cells mainly in the form of esters. From here, as needed, retinol is delivered to other organs, including the skin.

The mechanism of cellular regulation of retinoid metabolism is a complex, but clear and well-tuned system. It includes many enzymes and binding proteins that ensure the capture, metabolism, deposition and transport of retinoids inside the cell.

Over time, scientists have found substances that have effects similar to vitamin A. Synthetic and natural compounds whose mechanism of action is similar to retinol are called retinoids and are used to treat a variety of diseases, including skin diseases.

Retinol rejuvenates the skin

Being a derivative of vitamin A, retinol stimulates the production of collagen, a natural component of the dermis, which makes the skin look younger. The results of one of the many studies showed that 36 women aged 80 and older, who applied an ointment with 0.4% retinol to the skin of their hands, after 24 weeks noted clear changes in the condition of their skin. The area of skin where the ointment with retinol was applied became smoother, firmer and more elastic.

Retinol makes skin healthier

Retinol helps to get rid of depigmentation, lines and wrinkles, correct skin texture, even out its tone and color. As a result of using retinol, the skin looks healthier and smoother.

Retinol stimulates cell turnover

Regular exfoliation is the key to youthful-looking skin: dead cells are removed, and new, healthy cells form the surface layer of the skin. Regular exfoliation makes the skin smoother, and various cosmetic products work more effectively, freely penetrating the deepest layers of the skin. A layer of dead cells does not allow beneficial ingredients to penetrate deep into the skin.

Retinol Treats Acne

Retinol not only reduces the signs of skin aging, but also helps solve the problem of acne, dermatologists say. Acne affects almost 50% of adult women, and treating aging skin from acne can be a truly difficult problem. Fortunately, thanks to the exfoliating properties of retinol, its action allows you to cure acne: regularly removed dead cells do not clog pores, which has a most beneficial effect on the condition of acne-suffering skin.

Retinol is safer than retinoids

Being, like retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, retinoids are available only with the recommendation of a dermatologist. Although retinoids are much more effective than over-the-counter products, they have a significant drawback - using retinoids can cause irritation and redness of the skin. Retinol, on the other hand, acts much more gently on the skin, converting into retinoic acid - the key ingredient in products prescribed by a dermatologist - slowly and gradually. Retinol is ideal for those with sensitive skin prone to irritation.

Retinoic cosmetics

The first company to take the liberty of introducing a retinoic acid product to the cosmetic market was Ortho Parmaceutical Corp., a subsidiary of

Johnson & Johnson. In 1971, the acne treatment drug "Retin-A" (0.1% tretinoin) was introduced to the general public, quickly gaining popularity. 25 years later, in 1996, Ortho Parmaceutical released another product - "Renova", designed to prevent age-related skin changes and restore after photodamage. "Renova" contains 0.05% tretinoin, enclosed in a soft cream base, and is used to combat fine wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Consumers appreciated retinoic drugs, and a number of other companies followed the successful example of Ortho Parmaceutical (albeit with great caution). Retinoic cosmetics fit very well into modern cosmetology, which is gradually outgrowing the everyday framework and acquiring the features of a medical discipline.

Retinoids penetrate the skin directly through the stratum corneum (transepidermal pathway) or through the excretory ducts of the glands (transfollicular pathway). A gradient of retinoid concentration is created in the skin, decreasing towards the dermis. In the epidermis, retinoids control the processes of keratinization and pigmentation, and in the dermal layer they help restore the intercellular matrix, which gradually degrades during aging or UV irradiation. The transfollicular pathway allows for an increased concentration of retinoids directly in the follicles, which is especially valuable in the treatment of follicular pathologies, such as acne.

Every year, the world's leading dermatological journals publish the results of studies of retinoic drugs, including cosmetic ones. Of great value are long-term clinical trials, including parallel histological analysis, which makes it possible to compare visible effects with morphological changes in the skin.

For deeper cleaning, special superficial peels can be used, softening the stratum corneum and removing dead cells. Most often, such peels contain fruit acids (glycolic peels), there are also peeling agents containing enzymes (enzymatic peels). Another category of preparations that make up the cosmetic series are products that soothe, soften, nourish, protect and restore the skin. Their task is to prevent the occurrence of side effects associated with the action of retinol (erythema, inflammation, redness, etc.), or to alleviate the patient's condition in the event of already existing unpleasant sensations.

An essential condition when using such a cosmetic series is strict adherence to the sequence of application of the preparations. Only in this case can positive results be achieved and complications avoided. Clinical studies show that such a comprehensive approach is fully justified in the case of mild to moderate acne, photodamaged and aging skin. The medical press has also reported on the successful treatment of white stretch marks with a combination of preparations containing glycolic acid (20%) and tretinoin (0.05%) in a soft cream base.

Complications and contraindications to the use of retinoic cosmetics

When using retinoic cosmetics, in some cases, skin reddening, temporary peeling, rarely blisters, and increased sensitivity to sunlight are observed. This should be taken into account when developing a formula, if possible, selecting components in such a way as to reduce the risk of side effects. Contraindications to the use of retinoic cosmetics include the simultaneous use of photosensitizing drugs from the groups of thiazides, tetracyclines, fluoroquinolones, phenothiazines, and sulfonamides.

I would especially like to note the problem of using retinoic cosmetics in pregnant women. Despite the fact that the concentration of retinoids in cosmetics is low and it is believed that they are practically not absorbed into the blood, it is better to play it safe and refrain from using it. It should be remembered that vitamin A has a strong teratogenic effect and that retinoic drugs are strictly contraindicated for pregnant women.

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