Facial peeling with ferulic acid

Superficial chemical peeling is especially popular among cosmetic procedures, helping to eliminate some skin problems and improve the texture of the epidermis. Peeling with ferulic acid is also such a procedure.

Indications for the procedure

Ferulic peeling for removing keratinized cells of the superficial layer of the skin uses 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic or ferulic acid, which is a phenolic compound. The main pharmacological property of this lipophilic carboxylic acid is considered to be the ability to inhibit the process of oxidative degradation (peroxidation) of lipids under the damaging effect of free radicals on skin cells, i.e. antioxidant action.

Ferulic acid has also been shown to exhibit a wide range of biological activities such as anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-allergic, hepatoprotective, anticarcinogenic, antithrombotic, sperm viability enhancing, antiviral and vasodilatory, metal chelation, modulation of enzyme activity, activation of transcription factors, gene expression and signal transduction.[ 1 ]

More information – Free Radicals and Antioxidants

According to research, ferulic acid (which penetrates well through the stratum corneum of the skin) helps maintain intracellular antioxidant defense systems of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, collagen and elastin, which makes it advisable to include it in cosmetics for mature skin care. And due to its ability to suppress the activity of thyrokinase, the main enzyme in the formation of skin pigment (melanin), this acid is able to cope with skin hyperpigmentation. [ 2 ]

Ferulic acid is a potent UV absorber, [ 3 ]. Ferulic acid alone or in combination with vitamin E and vitamin C provides approximately 4-8 times the protection against radiation damage. [ 4 ]

Indications for these cosmetic procedures include:

• uneven pigmentation – dark pigment spots on the face;
• uneven texture of the epidermis on the face, signs of flabby skin;
• acne;
• presence of acne scars;
• increased oiliness of the skin with clogged pores (comedones);
• signs of skin aging and UV-induced photoaging of the skin.

Preparation

What is the preparation for the ferulic acid peeling procedure? Cosmetologists recommend:

• Avoid waxing, electrical treatments, hair removal creams, laser hair removal, and topical corticosteroids for at least one week before any chemical peel;
• Stop using any topical products containing retinol, benzoyl peroxide or hydroxy acids (AHA), i.e. bleaching creams, blackhead creams, acne creams, etc. – also one week before the peel.

Chemical peels should not be performed unless the patient's skin has recovered from other recent cosmetic or surgical procedures on the face.

Technique ferrule peel

The technique for performing ferulic peeling may vary slightly depending on the chosen product (the presence of certain ingredients in its composition, for example, trichloroacetic acid) and the problem for which this manipulation is performed.

The basic protocol for the ferulic peeling procedure includes the following steps:

• removing make-up using cosmetics appropriate to your skin type;
• cleansing the skin with a medical degreaser or liposomal cleanser (in the form of a lotion) - to remove sebum;
• applying a peeling agent to cleansed skin;
• exposure of the applied composition (the duration of which varies from 3-5 to 10-15 minutes) – until it is completely dry;
• cleansing the skin of any remaining product (use liquids or gels that neutralize the acid);
• applying a protective agent (cream or mask) to dry skin.

Ferulic Acid Peeling Products

Today, a whole range of special peeling products with ferulic acid are produced.

Ferulic peeling Sesderma is produced by the Spanish company "SesDermaLaboratories": TM Mediderma SesGlicopeel. Thus, ferulic peeling Mediderma (Mediderma) - Ferulac peel classic Mediderma - contains ferulic acid and polyphenol antioxidant phloretin.

In addition to these ingredients, Ferulac peel plus Mediderma contains retinol (which is involved in the differentiation of epithelial cells) and organic keratolytic oxyacids (AHA) that cleanse the skin of dead cells: lactic, malic and citric.

And Mediderma Ferulac nano additive mist with ferulic acid and phloretin also contains azelaic acid (which helps reduce skin oiliness and get rid of acne); vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid), which is necessary for the formation of the skin's protective mantle; retinol, ceramides (skin lipids) and zinc, which accelerates skin cell regeneration.

The same manufacturer has a ferulic peeling Valencia (SesDerma Valencia Peel). It contains ferulic acid (6%), keratolytics and exfoliants - salicylic and trichloroacetic acids (5% and 10%, respectively), as well as ascorbic acid and a plant-based skin whitener, arbutin. This product can be used as a ferulic peeling for acne scars.

Spanish production (Simildiet Laboratorios) and combined ferulic peeling Simildiet, which, in addition to ferulic, contains lactic, citric and malic acids.

Ferulic peeling Biomatrix (BioMatrix, France) – ferulic-almond, with the addition of almond acid (as a keratolytic and regulator of sebum production).

Ferulic peeling Pleyana (Pleyana, Russia-Switzerland) is a peeling complex with azelaic acid. And in the composition of the Pleyana peeling serum (for problem, combination and oily skin) - along with ferulic, almond and azelaic acids - manufacturers included lactic, succinic and salicylic acids and vitamin B3.

Ferulic peeling NeosBioLab (NeosBioLab) of Russian production, in addition to ferulic, lactic, citric and ascorbic acids, contains D-gluconic acid anhydride and retinol.

Belita (Bielita) peeling with ferulic acid (Belarusian cosmetics Belita-Vitex) also contains lactic and citric acid.

Contraindications to the procedure

Any superficial chemical peeling, including that with ferulic acid, is contraindicated:

• for increased skin sensitivity;
• when the integrity of the epidermis is compromised;
• in cases of allergic reaction with skin manifestations;
• during pregnancy and lactation, more details – Peeling during pregnancy
• for fever, acute inflammatory diseases and exacerbation of chronic infections;
• if there is a wart, nevus or active herpes rash in the area where the composition is applied.

Ferulic facial peeling should not be performed on patients with vitiligo and rosacea;

• cancer patients, especially after recent radiation or chemotherapy; with a history of autoimmune diseases (psoriasis, SLE, rheumatoid arthritis).

Complications after the procedure

A possible complication and undesirable consequence of this procedure is swelling of the skin, as well as a chemical burn - with the development of erythema and the formation of a scab.

Read - Peeling: indications and contraindications, complications, care

Consequences after the procedure

The skin exfoliation that continues for some time (about a week) is a natural (planned) result of peeling.

Care after the procedure

After ferulic peeling, skin care involves:

• avoid washing with water and applying foundation or concealer for 7-10 days;
• using gentle cleansers and facial moisturizers;
• limiting sun exposure and applying an intensely moisturizing cream with UV filters (SPF 30+) before leaving the house;
• temporary refusal from any intense physical activity (which increases sweating);
• exclusion of alcoholic beverages and smoking.

Peeling skin should never be torn off, as this may lead to scarring.

The effect of ferulic peeling

The effect of ferulic peeling declared by manufacturers – if we discard the obvious advertising promises of “skin renewal” – is due to the biochemical action of all components. But its result in the form of the disappearance of pigment spots and acne, a fresher appearance of the skin (improvement of its tone and texture, as well as a reduction in fine wrinkles) is temporary.