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What is a "dietary supplement" in cosmetics
Last reviewed: 04.07.2025
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In general, a compound is considered "biologically active" if it is capable of interfering with the vital functions of skin cells or being involved in biochemical processes occurring in the extracellular matrix. But then how is it fundamentally different from a drug?
In an attempt to somehow differentiate cosmetics and medicines, legislators have come up with various criteria by which it would be possible to separate a cosmetic product from a pharmaceutical preparation. For example, it has been proposed to consider cosmetics only those products whose action is limited to the stratum corneum of the skin.
If we limit the capabilities of cosmetics to the stratum corneum, then no active additives will be needed in cosmetics - elements that soften the upper layer of the skin will be enough (in fairness, we should say that most often the consumer deals with such cosmetics). However, due to the hydrophobicity of emollients, we cannot exclude the possibility of these substances penetrating the epidermis.
There are blood vessels in the dermis, so a substance that has reached the dermal layer has every chance of getting into the blood, which means that the requirements for its safety should be increased. In fact, the possibility of cosmetic components getting into the blood should be taken into account in any case - the cream can end up on a burn surface and open wounds, on mucous membranes and even be swallowed (for example, when kissing).
Thus, the main criterion for the possibility of including a particular component in a cosmetic product should be its absolute safety. As for biological activity and intensity of impact, here, apparently, cosmetics will advance further, despite all the restrictions (proof of this is a new class of cosmetics that affect the dermis and subcutaneous fat).
Active additives can be divided into three main groups: deficiency fillers - substances that the skin needs; protectors - protect the skin from harmful factors; modulators - change the speed and intensity of various physiological processes in the skin.