New forms for cosmetic hair care

New forms of cosmetic hair care are currently being created. One of them is a moisturizing cream for dry and brittle hair, which is applied to the entire length of the hair. Such creams often contain silicones, which envelop the hair, help the scales stick to it and, thus, restore shine.

To protect hair from the effects of cold chlorinated water in the pool, special oils are used. The oils contain silicone, which coats the hair. Some companies produce such products in the form of an aerosol.

Various cosmetology techniques used for hair and scalp care and for the treatment of various scalp dermatoses

Scalp massage

Massage of the scalp is used to improve blood supply to this area, drainage effect and relaxation. Considering that the procedure increases the secretion of the sebaceous glands, massage of the scalp is not indicated for seborrhea.

In general, scalp massage consists of several consecutive stages:

1. Preliminary massage of the forehead, temples, area behind the ears (light kneading); these movements reduce congestion and improve local blood circulation, simultaneously acting on the endings of the trigeminal, facial and cervical nerves.
2. Massage of the scalp itself (rubbing, vibration, stroking); begins with vigorous and deep rubbing - linear, transverse and circular, displacing the skin over the underlying bone base. These rubbings cause increased blood flow to the skin surface, regulating the secretion of the sebaceous glands and improving microcirculation. This procedure helps to increase skin turgor and normalize hair growth. Vibration helps to improve blood circulation in deeper vessels, as well as affecting the sensory and motor nerve endings. Light stroking with fingertips gives a relaxing and lymphatic drainage effect.

General principles of hair and scalp care

3. Neck massage (kneading and stroking). Kneading and stroking this area is a necessary completion of the scalp massage to achieve more effective results. This enhances the drainage effect and improves local metabolism. At this stage, the area of the occipital nerves, the cervical plexus and many branches of the facial nerve are affected, which significantly strengthens the overall tone and improves well-being. Stroking eliminates venous congestion, providing a calming and restorative effect.

The duration of the procedure is at least 15-20 minutes, with about 2/3 of the time devoted to the second stage of the massage. The course of treatment includes 15-20 sessions 2 times a week. The massage can be performed using various oils, creams, powders, the choice of which is based on the hair type.

Physical methods

Currently, various methods using physical treatment methods are widely used in cosmetic care in a salon or office. These include vacuum massage, cryomassage, darsonvalization, microcurrent therapy, medicinal electrophoresis (iontophoresis), electrostatic field, therapeutic laser, thermal procedures (vaporization, dry heat), ultrasound, ultraviolet irradiation, photochromotherapy and other methods.

Vacuum massage of the scalp and cryomassage are prescribed to improve blood supply to this area and the drainage effect. Vacuum massage is performed using various attachments that allow creating a pressure gradient at certain intervals. The course of treatment usually includes 15-20 procedures, with an interval of 2 times a week. Cryomassage is performed using liquid nitrogen. In addition to improving trophism and the drainage effect, the procedure also has a drying and exfoliating effect, so it can be used for liquid seborrhea. Cryomassage is performed with rotational movements along the partings. The exposure time for each area is 3-5 seconds, the total duration of the procedure is 10-20 minutes. The course of treatment usually includes 7-15 sessions, performed every other day or 2 times a week. Given the intensity of the impact on the scalp, vacuum massage and cryomassage are not indicated for increased hair loss with alopecia of any genesis.

Currents of d'Arsonval are used to activate blood supply in the area of action. Darsonval also stimulates epithelialization processes, has antipruritic, trophic and resorption effects.

To perform the procedure on the scalp, electrodes in the form of a glass comb are used. The movements are carried out in a strictly defined direction: from the forehead to the back of the head. The duration of one procedure is 10 minutes, the course of treatment includes 10-20 sessions carried out every other day. This method is used for nesting baldness and androgenic alopecia. The procedures also have a slight drying effect due to a decrease in the production of sebum and a decrease in sweat secretion, so they are indicated for liquid seborrhea, accompanied by increased oiliness of the scalp.

Microcurrent therapy has a draining effect and improves microcirculation processes in the skin. The method is based on the use of weak pulse currents. The procedures are carried out using special electrodes or rubber gloves. The duration of the procedure is 10-20 minutes. The course of treatment is recommended to be 10-12 sessions, every other day. Microcurrent therapy is recommended for alopecia of various genesis, as well as at the stage of rehabilitation of patients after hair transplantation and plastic surgery.

Medicinal electrophoresis (iontophoresis) is used to introduce various medicinal products into the dermis (improving microcirculation, disinfecting, anti-inflammatory, etc.). The technique is based on the combined effect of electric current and the administered medicinal substance on the skin. The course of treatment includes 8-12 procedures, carried out every other day or daily. This method is recommended mainly 3 for external treatment of alopecia of various origins.>

The electrostatic field improves microcirculation, has a lymphatic drainage effect, stimulates regeneration processes and has a sedative effect. To perform the procedure, special devices are used: hemisphere-shaped devices, inside which an electric field is created. The duration of the procedure is 10-15 minutes, the course of treatment can be long (up to several months), the frequency of procedures is 1-2 times a week. It is recommended for alopecia of various genesis, as well as for the rehabilitation of patients after hair transplantation and plastic surgery.

Therapeutic laser is based on the use of low-intensity laser radiation for therapeutic purposes, which has an anti-inflammatory effect and improves microcirculation in the skin. During the procedures, various attachments are used, contact and non-contact effects on the lesion. The course of treatment is 10-20 sessions, carried out every other day or 2 times a week. Therapeutic laser can be widely used for nesting baldness, circular baldness, as well as alopecia of other etiologies. Given the soft and physiological effect, the technique has no restrictions for people with different types of hair, and its non-contact variety can also be used at the stage of intense hair loss.

Thermal procedures used in beauty salons are divided into steam and dry. Steam procedures are carried out using a special cap with a vaporizer inside; previously, compresses were used on the scalp. This method promotes vasodilation and maceration of the stratum corneum, which improves the penetration of various medications into the skin. Considering that maceration of the stratum corneum increases transepidermal water loss and causes dry skin and decreased turgor, this technique is not indicated for increased dryness of the scalp and hair. Dry heat is usually used to activate hair coloring processes and drug penetration. Any thermal procedures are not recommended for seborrhea due to the activation of sebum production.

Ultrasound is used to improve the trophism of the scalp, accelerate regeneration processes, achieve anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antipruritic and resorption effects, and also to introduce various active agents into the skin (ultraphonophoresis). The course of treatment includes 8-12 procedures carried out every other day or daily. This method is widely used in the external treatment of alopecia of various origins, as well as at the stage of rehabilitation of patients after hair transplantation.

Ultraviolet radiation has a drying and exfoliating effect, and also stimulates microcirculation processes in the scalp. For this purpose, both conventional ultraviolet lamps and special attachments to the radiation source in the form of combs for direct action on the skin are used. PUVA therapy is used less often. At the same time, in recent years it has been noted that ultraviolet radiation has a negative effect on the skin (suppression of the local immune response, carcinogenesis, changes in squalene, which is part of sebum, as a result of which it acquires comedogenic properties). In this regard, this method has not received widespread use in practice. The technique is used mainly in the treatment of psoriasis of the scalp, less often - in the management of patients with alopecia areata.

Photochromotherapy is based on the direct perception by the patient of visible light in the range of 400-760 nm and the indirect effect on the scalp. The effect occurs as a result of the effect of waves of different lengths on the eye. Thus, the red spectrum causes an increase in muscle tone, has an exciting and stimulating effect. The green spectrum has a soft regulating and normalizing effect on vascular tone, as well as a general relaxing effect.

Among the methods of general impact, aromatherapy and stone therapy should be mentioned. Aromatherapy uses various essential oils, the range of which is selected individually taking into account the hair type. The perception of various smells at the subcortical level has a tonic, anxiolytic or relaxing effect, thereby affecting the condition of the hair.

Stone therapy (from the English word "stone") is based on the use of stones and temperature gradients for therapeutic purposes. Stone therapy is a relatively new technique, it includes segmental exposure of the entire surface of the skin to polished basalt or marble stones of varying temperatures. The procedures have a sedative effect, improve microcirculation and metabolic processes in the skin, including the scalp.

In recent years, complex impact hardware cosmetology techniques have become widespread, allowing to influence the condition of hair indirectly, through normalization of functioning of other systems and organs. Such techniques include alpha capsules, the main functional purpose of which is correction of the body's condition under chronic stress. Alpha capsules combine a dry sauna with an impact temperature of up to 82°C, vibration massage, aromatherapy, ionized air, elements of photochromotherapy and music therapy. The combined effect of the above physical factors on the entire body improves the functioning of the respiratory and cardiovascular systems, activates microcirculation, and also has a general tonic and anxiolytic effect.

It should be emphasized that the choice of any method of physical impact largely depends on the type of hair and the severity of its loss.

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