Dry hair care

Despite the fact that the factors that contribute to dryness and increased fragility of hair are well known, in practice it is not always possible to eliminate them to the required extent. The main goal of many cosmetic products for dry hair is to slow down the processes of their degradation and protect them from external aggressive effects associated with the environment and care. Due to the fact that with dry hair there is a decrease in the amount of fatty substances on the surface of the hair, the action of cosmetic products is aimed at replenishing this deficiency. The following substances are most often included in the composition of various forms:

• Organic acids.
• Fats, fatty acids and their derivatives.
• Vitamins.
• Protein derivatives.
• Cationic detergents (surfactants).
• Cationic polymers.

Organic acids (acetic, lactic, malic, citric, etc.) have long been widely used for dry hair care. Many are familiar with the method of rinsing hair after washing with an aqueous solution of acetic or citric acid (1 teaspoon of vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice per 1 liter of water). In this case, the acid neutralizes the effect of the alkaline detergent and gives hair shine. Acid rinses are also used after the bleaching procedure to precipitate proteins after the natural degradation of the hair.

The use of fats, fatty acids and their derivatives is quite justified, since it is necessary to restore a compound on the hair surface that is as close as possible in composition to sebum. The following substances are recommended:

1. Fatty acids: oleic, stearic, linoleic, linolenic (vitamin F), ricinolenic, etc.
2. Fatty alcohols: lauryl, myristyl, oleyl, cetyl and stearyl alcohols.
3. Natural triglycerides, found in predominant quantities in oils: almond, castor, peanut, olive, oat, avocado, etc.
4. Natural waxes: beeswax, spermaceti.
5. Fatty esters such as glycol or glycerol stearates or oleates, and isopropyl fatty esters.
6. Oxyethylene and oxypropylene derivatives of waxes, alcohols and fatty acids.
7. Partially sulfated fatty alcohols.
8. Lanolin and its derivatives.
9. Phospholipids, especially lecithins, a mixture of phosphatides obtained from egg yolk or soybeans.
10. Isostearyl lactylate.

Vitamins, especially groups D, B and E, are used mainly of plant origin.

Protein derivatives. It is known that a protein molecule is too large to penetrate the hair and attach to its keratin. Therefore, such a molecule is replaced by protein hydrolysates, or a mixture of peptides or amino acids formed as a result of complete hydrolysis of the protein. Hydrolysates of keratin from various animals (cow horn, horsehair, etc.), silk proteins, collagen, gelatin, casein are also used. Often, a good effect can be achieved by using condensation products of keratins in combination with fatty acids.

Cationic-active detergents (surfactants). Cationic-active derivatives are surfactants with a hydrophilic cationic group having one or two lipophilic hydrocarbon fatty chains. When a cationic-active detergent gets on the surface of damaged hair bearing anionic valence, an electrochemical bond of the negatively charged hair and the cationic-active substance occurs, which promotes the formation of a thin monomolecular film on the hair surface. In addition, when the said detergent acts on the hair, an antistatic effect occurs due to a decrease in the potential difference.

Cationic polymers. It is known that cationic-active detergents (surfactants) are ideal for normalizing the surface of damaged hair and protecting it. However, they do not improve the structure of damaged hair. Moreover, the use of these components is not always comfortable due to the irritating effect and incompatibility with a number of anionic detergents included in shampoos. That is why new compounds compatible with anionic detergents were developed - cationic polymers, which are able to create a special protective film on the surface of the hair, restoring its structure and strength. The first cationic polymer, which appeared on the market in 1972, was "Polymer JR (Polyquaternium 10)". It was added to one of the shampoos as a conditioning ingredient. Subsequently, many new varieties of cationic polymers were released and patented. Currently, three main types are used: cationic celluloses and starches, cationic silicones, and protein hydrolysates.

The most commonly recommended products for dry hair care are shampoos and after-wash hair care products.

The basic principles of scalp care for people with dry hair are as follows:

• Correct selection of shampoo according to hair type. In case of detection of manifestations of seborrheic dermatitis, it is necessary to prescribe medicated shampoos. It is not recommended to use alkaline soaps and alcohol solutions for the scalp.
• Wash your scalp no more than once every 5-7 days, preferably in the evening.
• Use of conditioners, as well as herbal infusions (linden blossoms, chamomile, etc.) and acid solutions (acetic, citric).
• Frequent combing of hair with a wooden comb with large gaps between the teeth.
• It is not recommended to use a hair dryer, visit a sauna frequently, be in the open sun without a hat, frequently dye your hair with artificial dyes, abuse hair fixing products, especially hairspray, and do chemical perms.
• In a beauty salon, scalp massage, vacuum massage, electrostatic field, ultrasound, medicinal electrophoresis, microcurrent therapy, therapeutic laser, thermal procedures, as well as nourishing masks for the scalp are recommended.