Care for dry hair

Despite the fact that factors contributing to dryness and increased fragility of hair are well known, in practice, it is not always possible to eliminate them in due measure. The main goal of many cosmetics for dry hair is to slow down the processes of their degradation and protection from external aggressive influences related to the environment and care. In connection with the fact that with dry hair there is a decrease in the amount of fatty substances on the surface of the hair, the action of cosmetic preparations is aimed at replenishment of this deficiency. Most often in the composition of various forms include the following substances:

• Organic acids.
• Fats, fatty acids and their derivatives.
• Vitamins.
• Protein Derivatives.
• Cationically active detergents (surfactants).
• Cationic polymers.

Organic acids (acetic, lactic, malic, citric, etc.) have long been widely used for the care of dry hair. Many people are familiar with the method of washing after washing the hair with an aqueous solution of acetic or citric acid (1 teaspoon of vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice per 1 liter of water). In this case, the acid neutralizes the action of the alkaline detergent and gives the hair shine. Acid rinses are also used after the bleaching procedure to precipitate proteins after a regular hair degradation.

The use of fats, fatty acids and their derivatives is completely justified, since on the surface of the hair it is necessary to restore a compound that is as close to the composition as possible to the skin fat. Recommended substances are as follows:

1. Fatty acids: oleic, stearic, linoleic, linolenic (vitamin F), ricinolenic, etc.
2. Fatty alcohols: lauryl alcohol, myristyl, oleyl, cetyl and stearyl.
3. Natural triglycerides, contained in a predominant amount in oils: almond, castor, peanut, olive, oatmeal, avocados, etc.
4. Natural waxes: beeswax, spermaceti.
5. Fatty esters, such as stearates or oleates of glycol or glycerol, as well as isopropyl fatty esters.
6. Oxyethylenated and hydroxypropylenated derivatives of waxes, alcohol and fatty acids.
7. Partially sulphated fatty alcohols.
8. Lanolin and its derivatives.
9. Phospholipids, in particular - lecithins, a mixture of phosphatides derived from egg yolk or soybeans.
10. Isostearyl lactylate.

Vitamins, especially groups D, B and E are used, mainly, of plant origin.

Protein Derivatives. It is known that the protein molecule is too large, in order to penetrate the hair and attach to its keratin. Therefore, such a molecule is replaced by protein hydrolysates, or a mixture of peptides or amino acids formed as a result of complete hydrolysis of the protein. Also used are keratin hydrolysates of various animals (cow horn, horse hair, etc.), silk proteins, collagen, gelatin, casein. Often a good effect can be achieved as a result of the application of keratin condensation products in combination with fatty acids.

Cationically active detergents (surfactants). Cationically active derivatives are surfactants with a hydrophilic cationic group having one or two lipophilic hydrocarbon fatty chains. When a cationic-active detergent enters the surface of a damaged hair bearing an anionic valence, an electrochemical bond of the negatively charged hair and cation-active substance occurs, which facilitates the formation of a thin monomolecular film on the surface of the hair. In addition, when the detergent is exposed to the hair, an antistatic effect occurs due to a decrease in the potential difference.

Cationic polymers. It is known that cationic-active detergents (surfactants) are ideal for normalizing the surface of damaged hair and protecting it. At the same time, they have no effect on the improvement of the structure of damaged hair. Moreover, the use of these components is not always comfortable due to the irritating effect and incompatibility with the range of anionic detergents that make up shampoos. That is why new compounds compatible with anionic detergents have been developed - cationic polymers, which are able to create a special protective film on the hair surface, restoring their structure and strength. The first cationic polymer that appeared on the market in 1972 was Polymer JR (Polyquaternium 10). It was added to one of the shampoos as a conditioning ingredient. In the subsequent it was released and patented many new varieties of cationic polymers. Currently, the main three types are used: cationic celluloses and starches, cationic silicones, and protein hydrolysates.

The most often recommended for the care of dry hair are shampoos and hair care products after washing.

The basic principles of caring for the scalp in individuals with dry hair are as follows:

• The correct selection of shampoo in accordance with the type of hair. In case of detection of manifestations of seborrheic dermatitis, it is necessary to prescribe therapeutic shampoos. It is not recommended to use alkaline soaps and alcohol solutions for the scalp.
• Wash the scalp not more than once every 5-7 days, preferably in the evening.
• Use of balms, rinsers, as well as decoctions of herbs (inflorescences of lime, chamomile, etc.) and acid solutions (acetic, lemon).
• Frequent combing of hair with a wooden comb with large gaps between the teeth.
• It is not recommended to use a hairdryer, often visit a sauna, be under the open sun without a headdress, often dye your hair with artificial dyes, abuse means to fix hair, especially - varnishes, and do a perm.
• In the conditions of the beauty salon, hairy scalp massage, vacuum massage, electrostatic field, ultrasound, drug electrophoresis, microcurrent therapy, therapeutic laser, thermal procedures, and nourishing masks on the scalp are shown.