Oily hair care

Currently, there are no external agents that could have a positive effect on the condition of seborrhea. The use of antiandrogens and synthetic retinoids is not justified for every patient. At the same time, external preparations with a very mild "anti-seborrheic" effect are successfully used. The main requirements for such preparations are:

• Non-toxic;
• The ability to remove excess sebum without the harsh effects of detergents and solvents that cause dry skin and hair;
• Antipruritic effect;
• Bactericidal and fungicidal action;
• Normalization of keratinization and exfoliation of skin scales.

The main components of cosmetic products for the care of oily hair are sulfur and its derivatives, amino acids containing sulfur and thioethers, tars, some substances that prevent sebum from getting onto the hair, as well as fat adsorbents.

Sulfur and its derivatives have long been widely used in patients with seborrhea. The positive effects are considered to be disinfectant, antifungal, keratoplastic, soft keratolytic, vasomotor, oxidoreductive, etc. At the same time, in recent years, there have been increasing reports of the irritating effect of sulfur and intense drying of the skin and hair when exposed to it. Organic and mineral sulfur compounds are believed to act more gently. Their use in seborrhea helps to a large extent to get rid of the odor present in some patients. Examples of such compounds are polythionic acids and their alkaline salts, as well as mercaptocarboxylic acids and their esters and amides. Currently, among inorganic sulfur compounds, selenium disulfide is the most popular, although ideas about the action of this compound are very contradictory. On the one hand, its antimycotic effect is often used to treat seborrheic dermatitis. On the other hand, it was found that selenium disulfide causes an increase in the volume of sebaceous glands and sebum production by reducing the level of bacterial hydrolysis of sebocyte secretion. Against the background of the use of shampoos with this substance, a decrease in the content of free fatty acids by 20% or more was recorded, while the concentration of triglycerides increased by 160%. In addition, in some patients, selenium disulfide causes erythema and itching.

Sulfur-containing amino acids include cysteine and methionine. They are known to play an important role in keratinization processes, including hair. In this regard, it was quite natural to study their effect on seborrhea. During the analysis, it was revealed that these compounds are unstable and sensitive to oxidation. In addition, such substances can cause allergic dermatitis and have an unpleasant odor. The synthesis of new thiol derivatives made it possible to avoid unpleasant side effects. Currently, various salts of 2-benzylthiothylamine are widely used, which are able to inhibit bacterial lipases, as well as affect the synthesis of sebum lipids, selectively blocking the enzymes responsible for the formation of triglycerides.

Various tars are widely used to treat seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, and atopic dermatitis. Tars, regardless of their origin, have a very complex composition. They include polyphenols, high-molecular acids, and polyhydric alcohols, ketones, and waxes. These substances have antiseptic and antipruritic properties. In recent years, a high risk of carcinogenesis has been noted when applying tar to the skin. Numerous studies have proven the safety of using shampoos containing coal tar. Currently, some companies have begun to produce shampoos containing ichthyol, which also has a positive effect on seborrhea and seborrheic dermatitis.

In order to reduce the penetration and spread of sebum on the hair surface, special lipophobic films covering the hair have been used in recent years. They are added in small concentrations to shampoos for oily hair. The most popular are various acrylic derivatives and phosphorylated fatty acids, which have both lipophobic and hydrophobic effects.

To achieve the adsorbent effect, gelatin or casein, as well as finely dispersed starches and silicones, are usually used. They not only absorb sebum, but also make it thicker, which reduces the visible manifestations of liquid seborrhea. The negative quality of these preparations is that after using them, the hair becomes dull.

There is a whole series of different products for the care of oily hair. Shampoos that include carefully selected detergents that do not dry out the skin and hair are widely used. Such shampoos can be used for frequent washing and are usually labeled accordingly. So-called "dry" shampoos, which include various adsorbents, are also recommended. They can be used to remove excess sebum without using water or detergents.

Nowadays, in addition to traditional shampoos, various solutions and gels are offered that are applied directly to the hair roots. These include the following:

• Alcohol solutions (40-50%) for daily use, which are used to dissolve sebum. As a rule, they contain a small amount of anionic polymers, which help to give hair more volume. They are used before washing.
• Lotions used after washing have a low alcohol content. They usually contain various hydrocolloids, which act as adsorbents and facilitate hair styling.
• Hydrogels containing alcohols. They become more liquid when rubbed in and are easier to apply to the hair roots. This phenomenon creates a feeling of freshness and cleanliness of the scalp in the patient. The gel, accumulating in the mouths of the hair follicles, prevents the spread of a large amount of sebum along the hair, and, spreading over their surface, improves styling. Good cosmetic results were achieved when using gels that included non-ionic polymers acting as adsorbents.
• Emulsions for post-wash hair treatment, rinsed with water. The emulsion form has proven to be the most effective, since the rinsing process involves very short contact with the hair, and the use of solutions did not give the desired result. Most emulsions include various clays, plant extracts, proteins and polymers for adsorbing action and strengthening the hair. Emulsions have a high enough viscosity to spread over the hair and penetrate well into the cuticle area. Usually, a small amount of detergent (surfactant) is added to their composition as an emulsifier and to facilitate rinsing with water.

The basic principles of scalp care for people with oily hair are as follows:

• Correct selection of shampoo for oily hair. In case of manifestations of seborrheic dermatitis, preliminary prescription of medicated shampoos is necessary.
• Frequent washing of the scalp is allowed only with the use of mild shampoos specially designed for frequent washing. Preferably, washing the scalp in the morning.
• Using aqueous solutions of acids (1 teaspoon of table vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice per 1 liter of warm water) or emulsions and herbal decoctions (nettle leaves, calamus root, burdock inflorescences, etc.) to rinse hair after washing.
• Frequent combing, using a hot hair dryer, and constantly wearing tight hats are not recommended. It is known that frequent combing promotes the spread of sebum along the entire length of the hair and stimulates its production by activating the blood supply to the scalp.
• In a cosmetology facility, we can offer vacuum massage, cryomassage, darsonvalization, electrostatic field, ultrasound, medicinal electrophoresis, microcurrent therapy, therapeutic laser, as well as therapeutic masks for the scalp. It should always be remembered that the skin of patients with seborrhea is very sensitive to any physical and chemical effects, including the above procedures.

In conclusion, it is appropriate to emphasize that when treating patients with alopecia of any genesis, it is necessary to remember that they must adhere to a number of standard recommendations that should be followed, regardless of the established diagnosis.

• Use mild detergents that do not change the acidity of the skin.
• When washing your scalp, it is not recommended to use excessively hot water or water at low temperatures.
• Avoid frequent hair washing, especially with soap or products that significantly change the surface pH of the skin.
• Use a wooden comb with smooth, wide and sparse teeth. It is not recommended to use brushes and combs with narrow, sharp and frequent teeth.
• Avoid combing your hair, especially long hair, immediately after washing.
• Avoid using hair dryers and styling tools, electrical hair curlers, and chemical curling methods.
• Do not wear hairstyles that require constant "backcombing" of hair or intensively pulling it into a knot, do not use rubber or metal hairpins. It is preferable to fix the hair with ribbons or special fabric devices.
• Avoid using hairspray. Foam is preferred for fixing the hairstyle.
• Always wear a hat that fits properly during cold weather, cover your head during sun exposure and use sun protection products.
• Regularly, on average once every 4-6 weeks, trim the ends of your hair.

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