Masking and camouflage means

Correction of various appearance defects, including manifestations of a series of dermatoses and their consequences, was always in the focus of the interests of mankind. The centuries-old experience of using various means of decorative cosmetics by many peoples, varying from epoch to epoch, is well known. There are many approaches and points of view with regard to make-up and correction of various changes on the skin. Until recently, in dermatology, this aspect was considered more as an additional, in the field of vision of aestheticians, make-up artists, make-up artists. Traditionally, in order to visually reduce the volume of a particular part of the face, it is recommended to use dark tones, and the magnifications are light. Achievement of the desired masking effect was previously carried out with the use of conventional and widely used decorative cosmetics available in conventional perfumery and cosmetics stores. However, the widespread use of traditional decorative cosmetics for papillons with various dermatoses has not been recommended by specialists because of the high potential risk of comedogenicity, as well as pronounced irritating and sensitizing effects.

It should be emphasized that in classical dermatology, experts recommended the use of external drugs with a masking effect. They, on the one hand, had a therapeutic effect (anti-inflammatory, seborectic, disinfectant, etc.), and, on the other hand, had masking properties. Thus, for example, J. Darier (1908) proposed a coloring of the skin, comprising as a coloring agent a mixture of white and red clay (bolum atbua and bolum rubra). In England and the United States in the late XIX century. - early XX century. Widely used in external preparations (powders, solutions for washing, paste) "galmeyny stone" - carbon zinc, slightly burned, painted in pink. In order to give a shade to the skin, dermatological forms were also supplemented with ichthyol, burnt magnesia, zinc oxide, and later - ordinary powders, tonal creams.

In modern dermatocosmetology, the means for "make-up" are divided into three main groups [Rayner VL, 1988]:

1. Means for decorative cosmetics.
2. Means for the theatrical makeup.
3. Means for dermatological camouflage

In recent years, techniques have become popular that promote the introduction of pigment into the skin for a long time - artificial skin staining and permanent make-up. It is important to emphasize that the use of methods of persistent dyeing of the skin does not reduce the relevance of the widespread use of decorative cosmetics.

Means for decorative cosmetics are designed to emphasize certain facial features, create certain color scales, as well as mask minor changes in the skin (oily shine, single superficial acne, minor face erythema, telangiectasia, dyschromia, etc.). For persons with cosmetic imperfections, decorative cosmetics can solve another problem - to focus on certain areas of the face (eyes, eyebrows, lips) and distract your eyes from skin damage.

In recent years, many cosmetic lines designed to care for the skin of patients with certain dermatoses, include various tonal and masking agents. They are available in the form of agitated suspension, paste, emulsion (arch in oil or oil in water), mousse. The choice of form depends on the rate of excretion of sebum and the severity of the cosmic defect. As a masking agent, such agents most often contain titanium dioxide at a concentration of up to 20%. As you know, the connection is simultaneously a mineral screen. Modern means for dermatological make-up can also meet certain medical goals, being a valuable addition to external therapy. Thus, to achieve matting action, the derivatives of Rahmal and various silicones are used to reduce the severity of inflammation in the area of acne-a compound of salicylic acid. Emulsion toners are included in the scales for the care of the oily skin of Sebium (Biol aegta, France), Exfoliak (MERC Medicaçon Familial, France) and in the range for sensitive skin Rosellan (dermatological laboratories "linage", France), and corrective pencil - in the Normaderm scale ("Vichy Laboratories", France). There are also lines for people with sensitive skin and various dermatoses, which include not only tonal and corrective agents in the form of creams, sticks and powders (Aeroteint, Vichy Laboratories, Aqua D +, Lierac, Couvrancm gamma Avene Laboratory ", Etc.), but also other means of decorative cosmetics (" La Roche-Posay "). Some of these agents include not only pigments that characterize skin tones (white, beige, brown, etc.), but also other dyes, in particular green, which can mask erythema.

The so-called theatrical make-up, or theatrical make-up, is a means of applying to the skin of people performing on stage, it is also used for filming on television, in video and movies. The desired masking, modeling and color effect of makeup is achieved only under certain lighting, typical for a scene for cinematography. In its qualities, the make-up is very dense, opaque, contains a large amount of organic dyes deposited on insoluble mineral substances (rose, pastel, kraplak, hive tramarits, soot, etc.), mineral oils, fragrances. These components can be the cause of development in people with a particular profession of allergic dermatitis, exacerbation of atopic dermatitis, exogenous acne, photosensitivity, severe dehydration of the skin, etc.

The term "camouflage cosmetics" has become widely used in dermatology since the second half of the last century. The purpose of such cosmetics is the masking of pronounced defects in the open areas of the skin: face, neck, hands. It is intended for people with congenital and acquired disorders of pigmentation (vitiligo, albinism, melasma, post-inflammatory giper and hypopigmentation, nevi, etc.), acne, scars and scarring, vascular skin diseases (hemangioma, rosacea) and other conditions.

Special camouflage cosmetics are fundamentally different from the traditional means of decorative cosmetics. They, as a rule, are waterproof, opaque, contain more shades for the selection of the color range that best matches the individual tone of the skin, and are able to be fixed for a long time on the surface of the skin. Such products include up to 40% of pigments (titanium dioxide in iron oxides) and other components (talc, magnesium carbonate), which makes them twice as dense as conventional tonal products. Modern camouflage products include the corrective cosmetics Dermablend ("Vichy Laboratories"), as well as some tools from the scales Cueraps ("Laboratory Avene") and Unifjans ("La Roche-Posay"). In particular, the Dermablend range includes tonal coatings and fixing powder to complete the camouflage. The composition of the base includes liquid paraffin, a substance with a low melting point, providing a good distribution over the surface of the skin and a dispersion of pigments. However, natural waxes, substances with a high melting point, make it possible to firmly bind all components of tonal products, which ensures the durability of make-up. In addition, tonal coatings have a sunscreen factor of 30 due to their mineral screens. The fixing powder has a finely dispersed texture, which is achieved due to the special technology of micronization. This creates conditions for increasing the area of contact with oils and waxes of tonal coatings, which provides a long fixation on the surface of the skin - up to 16 hours.

Distinctive features of modern means of decorative and camouflaging cosmetics for dermatological patients are their proven systemic safety, hypoallergenicity, non-medogenicity. The pH of the water-lipid mantle, the ease of use.

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