Products for artificial skin coloring

For the purpose of permanent artificial skin coloring, various chemical compounds are used, as well as permanent makeup.

The technologies of the so-called "self-tanning" (self-tanning products) in modern cosmetology were borrowed from dermatology. If various methods of treating vitiligo are ineffective, specialists recommend using creams or solutions containing ketosaccharides (glyceraldehyde, glucose and fructose derivatives, etc.), in particular dihydroxyacetone (DHA). These compounds, obtained synthetically or from plant agents, are capable of causing temporary staining of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The color change is achieved due to the interaction of ketosaccharides with the amino groups of keratin amino acids. The desired skin tone appears 2-3 hours after application of the preparation. The duration of the brownish pigmentation depends on the depth of staining of the stratum corneum and its thickness. On average, such pigmentation lasts 5-6 days. Dihydroxyacetone is usually included in a concentration of 2.5-10%, and in preparations for facial skin a higher concentration is used than in preparations for the body, which is associated with a faster rate of desquamation of the epidermis on the face. It has been proven that the use of keto sugars is safe, it does not cause changes in cell proliferation, including melanocytes, and does not affect melanogenesis. At the same time, "self-tanning" is not always popular with consumers due to the unnatural yellowish-orange coloring of the skin and uneven pigmentation. It is known that an unaesthetic shade after applying cosmetics containing keto sugars occurs in cases of a change in skin acidity from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. In this regard, it is not recommended to use alkaline soaps before applying "self-tanning". In addition, it is necessary to restore skin acidity using modern care products (synthetics, tonic solutions, moisturizing emulsions) or create an acidic environment by applying external preparations with a high pH (for example, azelaic acid, hydroxy acids, etc.). As for uneven skin pigmentation, it can be associated with uneven thickness of the stratum corneum and uneven application of the preparation. Keratolytic and keratoplastic agents (azelaic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, etc.) or special scrubs for normalizing keratinization and desquamation of the epithelium are recommended for external use. Most modern preparations for artificial skin tinting include silicone derivatives, which ensure a more uniform application of the preparation. The described procedures can be used at home and in a beauty salon. It should be emphasized that the best result is achieved with advance preparation of the skin (1-2 weeks before applying "self-tanning").

In addition to ketosarc...

Artificial skin coloring can also be achieved by taking compounds containing lipochrome such as carotene orally. Currently, some personal and professional cosmetic lines include such preparations for oral administration (Beauty-tabs Skinsan, Ferrosan, Denmark; Oxelio, Laboratories Jalde, France; Inneov - healthy tan, Laboratories Inneov, France). They also recommend diets that include products rich in carotene (carrots, oranges, etc.). In particular, eating carrots can cause artificial orange skin coloring - carotenoderma. In recent years, external preparations in the form of a solution or cream, including carotenoids, have also appeared.

As for permanent makeup (micropigmentation, dermopigmentation), during this procedure the pigment is introduced using special needles directly into the upper parts of the dermis. With the help of permanent makeup, it is possible to achieve not only the desired aesthetic effect, but also to mask individual atrophic and hypertrophic scars, to replenish areas of alopecia in the eyebrow and scalp area, to emphasize the contours of the lips and eyes in the event of injuries, surgeries, various dermatoses and malformations. Pigments of different colors are used, which can be mixed in order to achieve the most natural shade of the corrected area. Currently, preference is given to dyes that include pigments with granules of 6 microns or more, which reduces the risk of dye migration beyond the injection site. The pigment can be introduced at one time or in stages. When painting large areas, a staged introduction is recommended in order for the patient to evaluate the aesthetic result of the procedure.

List of the main pigments and their corresponding chemical compounds) used for permanent makeup

Pigment color	Chemical compound
White	Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, barium sulfate
Black	Carbon, iron oxide
Brown	Iron oxide
Blue	Cobalt aluminate
Yellow	Cadmium sulfate, iron oxide
Red	Mercury sulfite cadmium selenide a isarin
Violet	Manganese oxide
Green	Chromium oxide

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