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Means for artificial coloring of skin

 
, medical expert
Last reviewed: 23.04.2024
 
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For the purpose of persistent artificial tinting of the skin, various chemical compounds are used, as well as permanent make-up.

The technologies of the so-called "self-tanning products" in modern cosmetology were borrowed from dermatology. When ineffective different methods of treatment of vitiligo, experts recommend the use of creams or solutions containing ketosahara (glyceraldehyde, glucose and fructose derivatives, etc.), in particular dihydroxyacetone (DHA). It is these compounds, obtained synthetically or from plant agents, that can cause temporary staining of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Color change is achieved due to the interaction of ketosugars with amino groups of amino acids of keratin. The appearance of the desired skin tone is observed 2-3 hours after the application of the preparation. In Further, the duration of brownish pigmentation depends on the depth of coloring of the stratum corneum and on its thickness. On average, such pigmentation persists for 5-6 days. Typically, dihydroxyacetone is included in a concentration of 2.5-10%, and in preparations for the face skin a greater concentration is used than in body preparations, which is associated with a faster rate of desquamation of the epidermis on the face. It is proved that the use of ketosugars is safe, it does not cause changes in cell proliferation, including melanocytes, and does not affect melanogenesis. At the same time "autosunburn" is not always popular with the consumer because of unnaturally yellowish-orange coloring of the skin and uneven pigmentation. It is known that an unaesthetic shade after the application of cosmetic preparations including ketosugar, occurs in cases of a change in the acidity of the skin with a weakly acidic to slightly alkaline. In connection with this, do not recommend using alkaline soaps before applying the "autosunburn". In addition, it is necessary to restore the acidity of the skin with the help of modern care products (syndetes, toning solutions, moisturizing emulsions) or creating an acidic medium by applying external preparations with a high pH (for example, azelaic acid, hydroxy acids, etc.). As for the uneven skin pigmentation, it is associated with uneven thickness of the stratum corneum and uneven application of the drug. External keratolygic and keratoplastic agents (azelaic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, etc.) or special scrubs for normalizing keratinization and desquamation of the epithelium are recommended externally. Most modern preparations for artificial skin tinting include silicone derivatives that provide a more uniform application of the drug. The described procedures can be used at home and in a cosmetic salon. It should be emphasized that the best result is achieved with advance preparation of the skin (for 1-2 weeks of applying "autosunburn").

In addition to ketosugars, a similar dyeing effect has some dyes, in particular henna, which are used for "temporary" tattooing. The duration of the color depends on the depth of staining of the epidermis, but on average does not exceed 28 days, i.e., the time of renewal of the skin epithelium.

Artificial tinting of the skin can also be achieved by ingesting compounds containing a lipochrom, such as carotene. Currently, some individual and professional cosmetic lines include similar preparations for oral administration (Beauty-scans Skinsan, Ferrosan, Denmark, Oxelio, Laboratory Jalde, France, Innes-a healthy tan, Innaov Laboratories, France). Recommended there and diet, including foods rich in carotene (carrots, oranges, etc.). In particular, when eating carrots, artificial orange staining of the skin may appear-carotenoderma. In recent years, external preparations appeared in the form of a solution or cream, including carotenoids.

As for permanent make-up (micropigmentation, dermopigmentation), in the course of this procedure the pigment is introduced with the help of special needles directly into the upper parts of the dermis. With the help of permanent make-up, you can achieve not only the desired aesthetic effect, but also mask individual atrophic and hypertrophic scars, fill the areas of alopecia in the eyebrows and scalp, emphasize the contours of the lips and eyes with the consequences of injuries, surgical interventions, various dermatoses and malformations. Use pigments of different colors, which can be mixed to achieve the most natural shade of the corrected area. Currently, pigments with pigments having a granule size of 6 μm or more are preferred, which reduces the risk of migration of the dye beyond the injection site. The pigment can be introduced simultaneously and in stages. When staining large areas, a step-by-step introduction is recommended to assess the patient's aesthetic result of the procedure.

List of basic pigments and their corresponding chemical compounds) used for permanent make-up

Pigment color

Chemical compound

White

Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, barium sulfate

The black

Carbon, iron oxide

Brown

Oxide of iron

Blue

Cobalt aluminate

Yellow

Cadmium sulphate, iron oxide

Red

Mercuric sulphite cadmium selenide a isazine

Purple

Manganese Oxide

Green

Chromium Oxide

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