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Cosmetic components: emollients

, medical expert
Last reviewed: 04.07.2025
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Emollients are one of the main components of modern cosmetics. Let's look at the features of these substances, their beneficial properties for the skin, and how to recognize them in cosmetics.

Emollients are the fatty component of cosmetics. These substances penetrate the stratum corneum, but do not affect the deep layers of the skin. Emollients give the skin a well-groomed appearance, smoothness, elasticity and silkiness, but do not have a physiological effect. The effect of emollients occurs due to the fact that the substances are securely fixed in the stratum corneum. Emollients can be presented in the form of natural fats, fatty alcohols, lanolin, wax, esters or silicones. In cosmetics, emollients are designated as mineral oil, stearic alcohol, caesarin or dimethicone. Emollients give cosmetics lightness, allow them to be well absorbed and distributed over the skin.

But in addition to positive properties, emollients can also have a negative effect on the skin. For example, cheap cosmetics use dangerous fatty acids as emollients, which cause comedogenic dependence by penetrating the stratum corneum and remaining there. Comedogenic dependence occurs due to lanolin, coconut oil and isosteriacin alcohol. As a result of exposure to these substances, acne or a slight rash appears on the skin. That is why, when choosing a cosmetic product for body and face care, special attention should be paid to the composition of the cosmetics.

Today, more and more cosmetic manufacturers are refusing to use emollients that are unsafe for the skin and are replacing them with silicones. Silicone emollients in cosmetics do not affect living cells and make the use of cosmetics safe.

What are emollients?

What are emollients? This is the fatty component of cosmetics. Emollients are responsible for the consumer properties of cosmetic products. Thanks to emollients, creams and lotions are well distributed over the skin and absorbed. They make the skin of the body and face soft, silky, elastic. Emollients are present in both professional cosmetics and decorative products. It is their presence that determines how long the makeup will last and how it will look on a particular skin type.

When applied to the skin, emollients remain on the surface, gradually penetrating the stratum corneum. This is why makeup can last so long. But not all emollients are safe for the skin. Some can cause allergic reactions and acne. As a rule, this happens when using low-quality and cheap cosmetics. In modern cosmetology, emollients are replaced by silicones. These substances have the same effect as emollients, but do not cause addiction or negative reactions. In addition, thanks to silicones in cosmetics, manufacturers can regulate the fat content of creams, the thickness and consistency of shampoos, lotions and other consumer properties of cosmetics.

Mechanism of action of emollients

Emollient in English means "softening agent", which fully reflects its main task - to soften the skin. It can be said that the effect of the cream applied to the skin is 99% the effect of emollients. Emollients do not penetrate deep into the skin, and therefore do not have any effect on living cells. Their effect is cosmetic in the full sense of the word - a temporary improvement in the appearance of the skin without active intervention in its physiology.

Emollients are fats and fat-like substances that have the property of being fixed in the stratum corneum, making the skin surface smooth and soft to the touch. Fatty alcohols, waxes, esters, natural fats and oils, as well as some silicone compounds (the so-called silicone oils) are used as emollients. The most common emollients are ceresin, mineral oil, wax (beeswax, carnauba, candelilla), isopropyl palmitate, stearyl alcohol, castor oil, and the silicones dimethicone and cyclomethicone.

Emollients largely determine the consumer qualities of cosmetic products - ease of distribution on the skin, absorption, appearance, sensations after application to the skin (smoothness, softness, silkiness). The selection of fatty components in decorative cosmetics is especially important, since they determine how evenly the makeup will be applied, how long it will last, etc.

It is not surprising that emollients are most often chosen for marketing reasons, with little or no regard for their effect on the skin.

In modern cosmetics, silicone oils are increasingly used as emollients, leaving organic fats and oils to play the role of active additives. Silicones meet the main criteria of emollients much better: when applied to the skin, remain on the surface, temporarily smoothing and softening it, and do not affect living cells. The biological inertness of silicones is the key to their safety.

The popularity of silicones is also explained by their special consumer qualities. They are not sticky and leave a soft feeling on the skin. With the help of silicones, it is possible to create a wide range of cosmetics, from creams and shampoos to decorative cosmetics. Moreover, silicones allow you to control the properties of cosmetics - you can create a composition that will be felt by the consumer as lighter or, conversely, more oily, leave a protective film on the skin or hair, give stability to lipstick or foundation.

Emollient cream

Emollient cream is an excellent product for face and body skin care. The main effect of emollient cream is that after the first use it makes the skin well-groomed, soft, elastic, eliminates dryness and roughness. Since emollient is a fatty component of a cosmetic product, let's look at the most popular emollients.

  • Petroleum-based emollients – these substances include mineral oil, paraffin, and Vaseline. These substances do not penetrate deeply into the skin and are biologically neutral. They form a thin film on the skin and prevent water from evaporating.
  • Paraffin is a colorless substance that melts when heated. It is what gives cosmetics their greasiness.
  • Paraffin jelly or Vaseline – forms an invisible film on the skin, which has a moisturizing effect.
  • Mineral oils are perfectly absorbed by the skin and, like the previous emollient, form a thin film to retain moisture in the skin.

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Emollients for atopic dermatitis

Emollients for atopic dermatitis have a therapeutic and preventive effect. But these substances are useful only if they are absolutely safe and do not cause comedogenic dependence. Atopic dermatitis is an inflammatory allergic skin disease, which very often has a chronic form. The main symptom of the disease is severe itching. As a rule, the disease appears in early childhood and has three stages of development, which replace each other as the patient grows older.

Emollients for atopic dermatitis have a therapeutic effect, they soften the skin and relieve itching. In addition to cosmetics with emollients, people with atopic dermatitis are prescribed anti-inflammatory drugs for external use. External therapy for atopic dermatitis is the most effective treatment method, and products with emollients are an ideal choice for treating and caring for diseased skin.

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Emollients for children

Emollients for children provide cleansing and moisturizing of the skin. They prevent dryness and form a protective barrier layer on the skin, which restores the water-lipid balance of the skin. The main purpose of using emollients for children is to restore the damaged area of the skin. Emollients are indispensable in the treatment of atopic skin dermatitis.

Emollients for children can be in liquid and cream form. The use of one or another form depends on the skin problems. So, if the child has dry skin and peeling, then preference is given to light creams and milk for care with emollients. If atopic dermatitis manifests itself in pronounced dryness of certain areas of the body, then it is recommended to use creams and ointments with emollients. The frequency of use depends on the degree of skin damage, but should not exceed four procedures for applying emollients to children's skin per day. Daily use of children's cosmetics with emollients is an effective prevention of atopic dermatitis and excellent care for delicate children's skin.

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Emollients in cosmetics

Emollients in cosmetics are the fatty component of the product. Translated from English, emollient sounds like a softening agent and this fully reveals the main functions and properties of these substances. Many cosmetologists claim that the effect of the first use of the product is 90% dependent on the quality of the emollients used. Since they are responsible for the consumer qualities of cosmetics. And this is absorption, distribution on the skin and the result after use. Thanks to emollients, after the first use of cosmetics, you can feel that the skin has become softer, more tender, more elastic.

Emollients are fats that penetrate the stratum corneum of the skin and are fixed there. Due to this, the skin becomes soft, tender and more well-groomed. More and more manufacturers prefer silicone oils as emollients. These substances do not affect living skin cells, and the biological inertness of silicones is a guarantee of safety for the body. Silicones are also popular due to their consumer characteristics. With their help, a wide range of cosmetics is created, everything from shampoos and hair balms to decorative cosmetics. Silicones are emollients that give stability to cosmetics, allow you to produce cosmetics for any skin type and consumer preferences - light and oily creams, long-lasting lipsticks, foundation creams and much more.

Emollients are an indispensable component of cosmetics. Emollients are responsible for the consumer characteristics of cosmetics and their properties. In addition, emollients help in the treatment of atopic dermatitis in both adults and children. And this proves the need for their presence in cosmetics for complete skin care.

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