The concept of basic care. Means for basic care

The main goal of modern skin care is the replenishment of lipids and ceramides of the water-lipid mantle and the preservation of the physiological (weakly-acidic) pH of its surface. For special care and correction of age-related changes and pathological conditions of the skin, special means of "basic" care are used. Modern care for any type of skin should include two main effects: gentle cleansing and adequate moisturizing.

Purification of the skin in cosmetology has the following objectives:

1. Remove from the surface of the skin external contamination, scales, excess sebum, without strengthening its further secretion.
2. Avoid during cleansing "delipidization" of the skin
3. Carry out disinfectant, keratolytic and other effects depending on skin type.

Cleansing can be achieved in many ways: with the help of cleansing. Emulsions, solutions (lotions), soaps and syndets.

Cleansing emulsions (cosmetic milk, cosmetic creams) are in the form of emulsion ointments (creams), they are usually used for severe dryness of the skin, its increased sensitivity to water and detergents. Such remedies can be recommended for people with dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin, as well as patients with atopic dermatitis, allergic dermatitis, eczema, ichthyosis, perioral dermatitis. Cleansing emulsions do not require flushing with water. May include mild detergents.

Solutions (lotions) are widely used to cleanse the facial skin in cosmetology, in particular, for acne, rosacea, perioral dermatitis.

In solutions, soaps and syndets include detergents, or surfactants (surfactants). The following varieties of detergents stand out:

Anionic (anionic) detergents are surfactants whose molecules dissociate in water to form surface-active long-chain anions. Alkaline, metallic and organic soaps obtained by alkaline hydrolysis of fats are referred to as anionic detergents. The raw materials for the production of soap are vegetable oils, animal fats, synthetic fatty acids, soap, salomass, rosin, waste from the refining of fats and oils. The process of obtaining soap (soap making) consists in saponification of the initial fats with an aqueous solution of alkali during boiling. So, when saponifying fats with potassium alkali, liquid, with sodium - solid soaps are obtained.

Cationic (cationic) detergents are surfactants whose molecules dissociate in solution to form a surface active cation with a long hydrophilic chain. Cationic surfactants include amines and their salts, as well as quaternary ammonium compounds. Cationic detergents are less effective than anionic detergents, since they reduce the surface tension to a lesser degree, but they can interact chemically with the surface of the adsorbent, for example, with bacterial cell proteins, causing bactericidal action. That is why cationic detergents are used as antiseptics (for example, chlorhexidine bigluconate). Include in the composition of shampoos.

Nonionic (non-ionic) detergents (syndetes) are surfactants that do not dissociate in water into ions and do not create a charge on the surface of the skin. Their solubility is due to the presence in the molecules of hydrophilic ether and hydroxyl groups, most often a polyethylene glycol chain. They are less sensitive to salts that determine water hardness than anionic and cationic detergents, and are also well compatible with other surfactants.

Amphoteric (ampholytic) detergents are surfactants containing in the molecule a hydrophilic radical and a hydrophobic part capable of being an enhancer or proton donor, depending on the pH of the solution. Usually amphoteric detergents are used as an emulsifier in the manufacture of creams (emulsions).

The detergent composition of the cleansing agent creates a certain environment on the surface of the skin. So, anionic detergents create alkaline medium (pH 8-12), nonionic - weakly acid (pH 5.5-6). Many companies release pH neutral detergents (pH 7), the acidity of which is caused simultaneously by the two types of detergents (soap and syndet) that make up their composition.

The most important task at the moment is the selection of modern detergents. Prolonged and frequent use of conventional detergents and cosmetics with pH> 7.0 significantly violates the barrier properties of the skin. Conventional alkaline detergents strengthen the alkalization of the stratum corneum, which leads to swelling of the cells and, accordingly, predisposes to maceration. This, in turn, enhances the permeability of the epidermis, including for potential allergens. Prolonged use of aggressive detergents causes transepidermal water loss and the appearance of dry skin. A consequence of this are microcracks, which can serve as input gates for secondary infection. In addition, cleansers with a high pH cause compensatory hypersecretion of sebum. In order to reduce the irritant effect of the cleanser, various lipids are included in its composition to create a protective film on the surface of the stratum corneum - fatty acid esters, wax esters, ceramides.

The ideal detergent should not cause skin irritation and not be allergenic. Due to the fact that only detergents containing synthetic non-ionic detergents (syndetes) not only do not damage the skin, but also contribute to the restoration of its barrier function, only representatives of this group can be recommended for washing persons with sensitive, dehydrated skin, patients with atopic dermatitis, per and oral dermatitis, eczema, acne.

To care for the area of the genitals and perineum in men recommend mild detergents that do not change the pH of the skin surface (syndets). For so-called "intimate care", women are shown special detergents with acidity adapted for the zones indicated. It is known that the pH of the vagina is low and is 3.8-4.5, therefore, detergents should correspond to the specified range. Such remedies may include anti-inflammatory drugs (eg chamomile extract, burdock, etc.), disinfectants and deodorizing additives (for example, feminine intimate hygiene gel, Urjage or intimate hygiene gel, Oriflame, etc.). They are especially shown to patients with genital itching, dryness, inflammation and can be used for menopausal xerosis, various dermatoses in genital and paragenital localization, as well as for the treatment of sexually transmitted infections. In cosmetology, these products are used after the procedure of tattooing and piercing in intimate areas. As a means of accompanying genital candidiasis therapy, in some cases, those with a more alkaline pH (for example, mild detergent for intimate and general hygiene Saforel, "FIK Medikal", etc.) are prescribed. For the purpose of individual prophylaxis of sexually transmitted infections, and also as a disinfectant, 0.05% chlorhexidine bigluconate solution, Cidipol, Miramistin, Citeal and other agents are used as disinfectants.

The goal of daily moisturizing of the skin is adequate hydration of the skin and an obstacle to transepidermal water loss. For this, three groups of substances are used: humectants, film-forming substances, and keratolytic agents.

Humectants allow the introduction of deep water into the skin in the stratum corneum. The modern members are the following:

• Natural moisturizing factors (NMF): pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, urea (up to 10% concentration) and lactic acid (5-10% concentration).
• Polyols are low-molecular hygroscopic compounds, including glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol.
• Macromolecules (glycosoaminoglycans, collagen, elastin, DNA) and liposomes.

Humidification of the skin is also achieved by reducing the transepidermal water loss. This is possible when a film consisting of lipids is applied to the surface of the stratum corneum. To substances forming a film, the substances constituting the oil phase of any emulsion (cream) are referred to. As an oil phase, now use petroleum jelly, paraffin perhydrosqualene, various silicones, natural oils rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (fish oil, primrose, grape seed, etc.), wax, lanolin, some fatty alcohols. The use of film-forming substances is the oldest method of moistening.

The use of various keratolytic agents (salicylic acid, hydroxy acids, urea - in concentrations above 10% of propylene glycol) is an additional method of moisturizing the skin. As a rule, these substances are used for hyperkeratosis, which accompanies xerosis of the skin, during photoaging and other conditions. Currently, keratolitics are widely prescribed in cosmetology in the implementation of skin peeling procedures, one of the goals of which is rejuvenation.

Typically, moisturizers are added to the emulsion (creams). For skin with a pronounced secretion of sebum (oily), emulsions such as "oil in water" are recommended, and for dry, dehydrated skin, such as "water in oil".

A very new remedy in cosmetology is serum. Serum is applied to cleansed skin under a day or night cream. Has the form of an emulsion or solution. The light, unsaturated texture of the serum allows the cream to be applied over it, which enhances the moisturizing effect.

To additional means for skin care are also tonic solutions and masks.

Toning solutions, or tonics, were originally created to normalize the pH of the skin surface after cleansing with soap and water. It is known that the alkaline medium on the surface of the skin after use of soap is kept up to 6 hours, therefore, its negative effect is also preserved for the same time. The use of tonic in such cases allows us to "balance" the effect of the cleansing detergents. Tonics are water or, more rarely, alcohol solutions with the addition of various acids, humectants, lipids; depending on skin type and dominant aesthetic problems include disinfectant, bleaching, keratolytic agents.

Masks are the most traditional in cosmetology means for skin care. As a matter of fact, the mask represents more likely not the certain form, and special, characteristic for a cosmetology, reception of its drawing on a skin surface. The main goals of masks in cosmetology can be as follows:

• Improvement of the surface texture and appearance of the skin due to removal of horny scales, dissolution and adsorption of sebum.
• Moisturizing the skin.
• Reducing the "porosity" of the skin.
• Creating positive feelings, etc.

Depending on the mechanism of action, the masks are divided into drying, cleaning, disinfecting, moisturizing, nourishing, etc. The choice of one or the other mask depends on the skin type.

Masks are applied to the cleansed skin for 10-20 minutes, then rinse with water or get wet. They are traditionally applied to the skin of the face, but in recent years, masks have been widely used for individual areas, for example, for the contour of the eyes, lips, neck and décolleté. Can be applied to large surfaces of the skin in the cosmetology of the body. The form of the mask is most often an emulsion (cream) or ointment. Forms of powder, agitated suspension, gel can be used. Modern masks, depending on the purposes of the manufacturer, can consist of a dry base and a solution (for example, hydrocolloid masks). Popular mask, consisting of a cloth impregnated with various means. In this case, the cloth is wetted in the solution immediately before application. They produce masks consisting of a cloth impregnated with a product and soaked in a solvent. Widely used masks containing various acrylates, capable of polymerization After exposure, the mask thickens and tightly attached to the surface of the skin, which allows you to remove it by the type of "stocking". Such masks reduce keratotic layers (for example, with age-related skin changes), as well as areas of follicular hyperkeratosis (for example, with acne). Masks can be applied in the salon and at home. Traditionally, home masks include various foods (berries, fruits, vegetables, sour cream, etc.).

For daily moisturizing of the skin of the tep, special moisturizing creams are used, made according to the principle of an oil-in-water emulsion. To moisten the rear of the skin of the hands and protect from adverse external influences, use water-in-oil emulsions with the addition of film-forming substances.

Modern basic skin care includes the use of deodorants in the form of cream, gel, solution (spray, etc.). According to the classification of E. PJ Seits and DI Richardson (1989), there are 3 types of substances included in deodorants:

• deodorizing fragrances;
• ingredients that reduce or remove odor;
• substances that prevent the appearance of odor.

Deodorizing fragrances include both perfumes and other substances. In particular, it is known that some floral oils used as a deodorant, in themselves, can give an unpleasant smell. To enhance their pleasant aroma, various terpenes (a-ionon, a-methylionon, citral, geranyl formate and geranyl acetate) are used. Also used are derivatives of flavonoids, which temporarily inactivate sensitive receptors of the nasal mucosa.

Ingredients that reduce or remove odor include sodium and potassium bicarbonate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, oxide, magnesium hydroxide hydroxide. It is believed that these substances are able to chemically neutralize fatty acids with a short carbon chain, which are the source of an unpleasant odor. This group includes various absorbing components: aluminum and potassium sulfate, dibutylamide-2-naphthoic acid, isonanoyl-2-methylpiperidide, zinc and magnesium salts of polycarboxylic acids. Absorbent effect is also possessed by plant agents such as tea, grapes, natural essential oils of lavender, rosemary, etc.

Substances that prevent the appearance of odor, are antibacterial and disinfectant agents. They actively suppress the vital activity of gram-positive micrococci and lipophilic diphtheria, ie, those microorganisms that cause sweat odor. Until recently, widely used neomycin, however, because of the high incidence of allergic dermatitis, in recent years, this drug has been abandoned. Traditionally, aluminum chloride, boric acid, benzoic acid, chloramine-T, chlorotimol, formaldehyde, hexamine, oxyquinoline sulfate, sodium perborate, zinc salicylate, zinc sulfate, zinc sulphide, zinc peroxide are included. Deodorants include undecylpic acid derivatives, ammonium compounds, triclocarban, triclosan, as well as various antioxidants (butyl hydroxy anisole - BHA, butylhydroxytoluene - BHT). In recent years, propylene glycol, hydrogen peroxide, alkyl salicylanilides, halosalicilanilides, prenylamine, thiocarbamates, etc. Have been widely used. Moreover, antiperspirant properties prevent odor from appearing. Previously, for this purpose, tannin, glutaraldehyde and other substances were used, and at present aluminum salts (acetate, benzoate, boronformate, bromohydrate, citrate, gluconate, etc.). The most popular aluminum chlorohydrate (aluminum chlorohydrate - ASN), also use a combination of aluminum and zirconium salts. It is known that these salts are capable of binding to keratin fibrils and are temporarily deposited in the lumen of the excretory duct of the sweat gland, and also transform fatty acids with a short carbon chain.