Means for hair and scalp care

For the care of hair and skin of the scalp, there are means for cleansing, cosmetic preparations for hair care after washing, means for fixing hair, photoprotective, etc.

To purify the scalp, shampoos are most often used, soaps are used less often for this purpose. In most cases, they are used to achieve a therapeutic effect. So, some soaps are prescribed in the care of skin and hair in seborrhea, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis. The existing forms of powder (powder), cream, aerosol and oil for hair cleansing are not widely popular.

The shampoo includes water, detergent (surfactant, surfactant) and various obesity additives. As a detergent used soaps of different origin, as well as synthetic compounds. The composition of the detergent shampoo creates a certain environment on the surface of the skin. Anionic detergents create an alkaline medium (pH 8-12), non-ionic - weakly acid (pH 5.5-6). PH-neutral shampoos (pH 7) are also produced, the acidity of which is determined simultaneously by the two types of detergents that make up their composition (soap and si is). It is shown that the cationic detergents possess the greatest irritant effect, to a lesser extent, anionic ones give this effect. Minimal irritating effects are characterized by nonionic detergents.

Most modern shampoos include air conditioners (the "two in one" formula). Some cosmetic companies in the manufacture of shampoos use various components of a different action. So, recently shampoos are widely used, which include natural dyes (chamomile, henna, basma, etc.) to give the hair a certain shade. In the market appeared shampoos containing ceramides, derivatives of tyrosine, inhibiting the appearance of gray hair, as well as derivatives of azulene to eliminate yellowing of gray hair.

Various medicines can be included for therapeutic purposes: antifungal agents (ketoconazole, zinc pyrithionate, tar, sulfur, disulphide and selenium disulphide), pediculocytes (pyrethrin, piperonyl, phenotrin, tetrametrin, etc.), salicylic acid and lipohydroxy acid, blood supply to hair bulbs (minoxidil 2.5-5%, amineksil 1.5%). In addition, use some vegetable oils (coconut, cypress, rosemary, tea and cayeput tree, etc.).

Cosmetic preparations for hair care after washing are used to return hair to shine, facilitate combing and styling, strengthen fine, weakened hair and increase their elasticity, remove static electricity, etc. According to the classification proposed by the French Cosmetic Industry Federation, cosmetic preparations for care hair after washing is divided into washable (rinses) and indelible.

Washable hair care products after washing are represented by all kinds of rinse aid, or conditioners, starting with liquid milk, conditioner rinses, creams for combing hair with different consistency, ending with liquid gels. The composition of these forms usually includes a base base (fats, alcohols, ethers, waxes), a thickener (necessary for stabilizing the emulsion form, often using a hydrophilic colloid), preservatives. As conditioning additives, cationic detergents and silicones are used. Various medicinal and sunscreen agents may also be included. Indelible products are represented by various solutions (lotion, and so-called serums), foams, conditioning creams.

Selection of shampoo, as well as cosmetic preparations for personal care after washing, is based on determining the type of hair (dry, fatty, etc. For dry hair, the composition of these forms includes: organic acids (acetic, lactic, apple), fats and fatty substances lanolin, beeswax, spermaceti, jojoba oil, etc.), fatty sour (oleic, stearic, linoleic, linolenic, ricinolenic, etc.) and their derivatives (natural triglycerides - almond, castor, peanut, olive, oatmeal, avocado oil , fatty alcohols - lau ryl, myristyl, oleyl, cetyl and stearyl alcohol, fatty esters, etc.), various vitamins (A, group B, E), protein derivatives (protein hydrolysates, a mixture of peptides, amino acids), phospholipids, cationic detergents, cationic polymers. It should be emphasized that cationically active derivatives are surfactants with a hydrophilic cationic group having one or two lipophilic hydrocarbon fat chains.When the cationic detergent enters the surface of a damaged hair bearing an anionic valence, an electrochemical I connect a negatively charged hair and a cation-active substance, which facilitates the formation of a thin monomolecular film on the surface of the hair. In addition, when the detergent is exposed to the hair, an antistatic effect occurs due to a decrease in the potential difference. It is known that cationic detergents (surfactants) are ideal for normalizing the surface of damaged hair and protecting it. At the same time, they do not affect the structure of damaged hair in any way. Moreover, the use of these components is not always comfortable due to the irritating effect and incompatibility with the range of anionic detergents that make up shampoos. That is why new compounds compatible with anionic detergents have been developed - cationic polymers, which are able to create a special protective film on the hair surface, restoring their structure and strength. The first cationic polymer that appeared on the market in 1972 was Polymer JR (Poly quaternium 10). It was added to one of the shampoos as a conditioning ingredient. In the following, many new varieties of cationic polymers were released and patented. Currently, the main three types are used: cationic celluloses and starches, cationic silicones, and protein hydrolysates.

The main components of cosmetic preparations for the care of fatty hair are sulfur and its derivatives (disulphite, selenium disulphate, etc.), amino acids containing sulfur (cysteine, methionine), thioethers, tar, some substances that prevent sebum from entering the hair, and fat adsorbents. To reduce the ingress and spread of sebum to the surface of the hair in recent years, special lipophobic films covering the hair have been used. They are in a small concentration added to shampoos for oily hair. The most popular are various acrylic derivatives and phosphorylated fatty acids, which possess both lipophobic and hydrophobic action. Gelatin or casein, as well as finely divided starches and silicones are commonly used to achieve the adsorption effect. They not only absorb sebum, but also make it more dense, which reduces the apparent manifestations of liquid seborrhea. The negative quality of these drugs is that after using them, the hair looks dull.

Now, in addition to traditional shampoos, various solutions and gels are offered, which are applied directly to the hair roots. They are used for increased greasiness of hair. These include alcohol solutions (40-50%) for daily use, lotions (solutions) used after washing, low in alcohols, hydrogels, including alcohols, emulsions for hair treatment after washing. These agents can include hydrocolloids, clays, plant extracts, proteins, nonionic polymers acting as adsorbents. Usually, a small amount of detergent (surfactant) is added to their composition as an emulsifier and to facilitate washing with water.

For the purpose of fixing the hair in the hair, aerosol forms, foams, gel, solutions are used. Earlier, the means for fixing the hair were various gels of natural origin, containing tragacanth and other ingredients, as well as various oils.

Now various synthetic polymers (for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone) are added to impart hair-free hair to the form, as well as ingredients with conditioning, antistatic action (for example, cationic detergents). The least aggressive are considered various foams for styling hair, most - sprays. In addition, sprays are becoming less popular now due to the danger of damage to the ozone layer of the atmosphere.

A permanent wave was invented more than 70 years ago in order to change the shape of the hair (make them wavy), which will persist even after washing. The technology and tools used for this kind of waving are constantly being modified. Regardless of the methodology, this process usually involves three stages.

1. Softening of hair under the influence of physical or chemical factors. The so-called "steam" wave is historically the oldest. The essence of the process is the destruction of hydrogen bonds between the polypeptides in the keratin molecules of the hair, which creates a temporary effect of the shape change achieved by using curlers. Obsolete is also the way in which a solution of ammonia and sodium bisulfite or triethanolamine was used in combination with the action of high temperature (the so-called "hot" perm). Earlier there were also popular methods of curling, the essence of which was reduced to a chemical isoteric reaction. These methods are now practically not used, since they significantly damage the hair and require special preparation. Since 1945, the cold chemical perm was widely used. The process of softening hair with a cold wave is provided by thioglycolates, which are capable of breaking disulfide bonds in the keratin molecule. At present, solutions containing thioglycolic acid and ammonium or monoethanolamine are used. In recent years, a wave based on glyceryl monothioglycolate has become popular, which turned out to be softer and can be recommended in individuals with dry and discolored hair. It should be emphasized that thioglycolates are quite strong sensitizers. They are the most frequent cause of the development of allergic dermatitis both in hairdressers and clients.
2. Giving the hair a new shape. Achieved with the help of curlers of different diameters. In the future, hair is treated with a neutralizing solution, which fixes the new form.
3. The fixation of the hair form is usually carried out with the help of hydrogen peroxide, which also acts aggressively on the hair.

In kits for chemical curling at home, usually include softer neutralizing solutions of the following salts: sodium tetraborate, sodium tetracarbonate, sodium bromate, potassium bromate, etc.

Negro people often use a variety of means and methods for straightening hair. Their essence, basically, is similar to a chemical wave. Men with short hair also use viscous fat substrates (pomade) for mechanical hair straightening and their gluing together.

At present, new forms for cosmetic hair care are being created. One of them is a moisturizing cream for dry and brittle hair, applied over the entire length of the hair. The composition of these creams often include silicones, which envelop the hair, promote the gluing of scales to it and thereby return the shine. To protect hair from ultraviolet rays, both UVB- and UVA-protectors are used. To protect the hair from the effects of cold water in the pool containing chlorine, use special oils. The composition of the oils includes silicone, enveloping the hair. Some companies produce such drugs in the form of an aerosol.

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