General principles of correction of age-related skin changes

Correction of age-related skin changes should be complex and depends on the dominant type of aging, the type and severity of aging, skin type (normal, dry, oily, combination), skin sensitivity, as well as concomitant diseases, age and patient motivations. It is extremely important to timely appoint and correctly combine various techniques. Complex impact can include home and salon care, massage, peeling, injecting, hardware techniques, as well as means for systemic exposure. Specialists also recommend activities for a healthy lifestyle (smoking cessation, adequate sleep duration, metered exercise, balanced diet).

Skin care

Includes gentle cleansing and adequate moisturizing. For daily cleansing, various synthetic detergents having a pH corresponding to the normal acidity of the skin, soaps containing a large amount of fats, and also specially designed emulsions and tonics are considered to be the most acceptable. When skin care is advised to use modern emulsion moisturizing creams.

In drugs for basic care can be added a variety of tools that apply to certain age-related changes. So, with mimic wrinkles, creams are widely used for daily skin care with Botox effect (gamma Miokin, Vichy Laboratories, Gamma Exclusive, Lierak, etc.). Their action is mainly aimed at stopping the calcium leavening in the endoplasmic reticulum of fibroblast (for this purpose, as a rule, use the antagonists of the Ca-ions Mg) or to slow the release of energy necessary for the formation of the actinomiosin complex (for example, adenosine).

In cases of severe dehydration and delipidisation of the skin, extremely gentle care is recommended, which does not cause destruction of highly specialized lipids and replenishes the barrier properties of the skin. A special role is played by the inclusion in daily means for moistening ceramides, their precursors (sphingoid bases), and also unsaturated fatty acids to islorot, which participate in the synthesis of ceramides.

When menopausal aging is necessary, in addition to adequate moisturizing and replenishing the barrier properties of the skin, use the means that stimulate the proliferative activity of basal keratinitis and fibroblasts. To this end, they include phytoestrogens and other agents that can be recognized by the key epidermal and dermal cells as their own growth factors (gamma Novadiol, Neovadiol cream, Vichy Laboratories, Arkeskin, Lierac, Izoval "," Uryazh ", gamma" Argon "," Galenik ", etc.). In case of pastosity of the skin, characteristic for lymphostasis and venous outflow disturbance, substances with drainage properties are included in the care products: caffeine derivatives (for example, Novadit night cream, Neovadiol night cream, Vichy Laboratories), horse chestnut, etc.

In order to restore the normal texture of the skin with a fine-wrinkled type and photo-aging, substances with exfoliating action, usually various acids, are used. Home-made peels are popular, including enzyme preparations and acids in low concentrations.

In modern cosmetology, the means stimulating the functional activity of fibroblasts and possessing pronounced moisturizing properties (phytoestrogens, hyaluronic acid, polysaccharides, glycosoaminoglycans, etc.) are already quite traditional. One of the modern directions is the inclusion in the external components of a complex of active components - anti-elastase and antimetalloproteinases, capable of hindering the destruction of dermal fibers under the action of elastase and matrix metalloproteinases (Lifttech pro, Vichy Laboratories; Isolitft "," Uryazh ", etc.). It has also been discovered that vitamin A and its derivatives can inhibit the activity of collagenases, so the products containing these ingredients also have this point of application (for example, gamma Retinox Correction, RoC).

With a preventive purpose, basic photoprotective and protective components are connected to the basic care means, for example protection from free radicals. At home and in a cosmetic salon, various masks (moisturizing, anti-cure, etc.) are widely used. For the purpose of correcting the signs of age-related changes in the skin, manual massage, peelings, injection techniques, as well as methods of hardware cosmetology are widely used.

It should be emphasized that the choice of this or that method depends on the type of skin, the severity of its sensitivity and dehydration, the patient's motivations, and also the type of aging. So, for example, with the deforming type, characterized mainly by the change in the tone of the facial muscles, the gravitational displacement of the subcutaneous fat and the phenomena of lymphostasis, the main ones can be shown the procedures directed first to active drainage (cosmechanics, microcurrent lymph drainage, vacuum lymphatic drainage, ultrasonic lymphatic drainage, etc. .), and then to restore the initial state of tonus of facial muscles (microcurrent therapy, myostimulation, biostimulation, myolifting, etc.). In the case of a fine-wrinkled type of aging, characterized mainly by changes in the epidermis and dermis level, at the initial stage of management all methods are available that allow to quickly moisten both surface and deep layers of the skin, as well as restore its barrier properties (surface peeling, oxygen therapy, microcurrent electrophoresis , phonophoresis, etc.). With the aim of activating the synthetic activity of dermal fibroblasts, cosmetic procedures, ultrasound therapy, light-thermal therapy, microdermabrasion, laser rejuvenation, etc. Are recommended. To reduce the diameter of the mouths of the sebaceous-hair device (pores) and to smooth out the microrelief, in the future, choose medium-depth peeling, and microdermabrasion technology , light-thermal rejuvenation or cosmechanics.

For oral intake, vitamins, trace elements, agents containing unsaturated fatty acids, combined preparations, some immunomodulators (peptide preparations of the thymus) are recommended. When menopausal aging solve the issue of hormone replacement therapy (HRT). The choice of drugs for HRT is performed by a gynecologist after a detailed examination. In recent years, special attention is paid to "anti-age" diets.

A special place in the correction of age-related skin changes is plastic surgery.

Features of photoaging correction

Adequate correction of photoaging is constantly in the center of attention of specialists because of the high frequency of this phenomenon. This is due to the increased popularity of recreation in regions with active insolation and active use of solariums. The management of patients with signs of photoaging includes mandatory photoprotection and a number of therapeutic measures, the choice of which depends on the nature of skin changes.

With regard to protection from ultraviolet, patients are advised to refrain from staying in the sun, wearing closed clothing and headgear, not to visit the solarium. It shows the use in sunny days of photoprotective agents, providing for highly effective protection against rays A and B.

Daily means for basic skin care during photoaging usually include not only moisturizing ingredients, but also derivatives of vitamins A, C, as well as various acids (gamma "Reti-C", "Vichy Laboratories", "Night-saw", "Day- Peel, Lierak, Active-S, La Roche-Pose, gamma Retinox Correction, RoC, etc.). In the correction of photoaging, external agents such as retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene) and azelaic acid. With prolonged use (not less than 6 months) of these drugs, improve the texture of the skin, reduce the number of wrinkles and lentigo, blanch the color of the ephelin.

Of the cosmetic procedures, the most commonly used medium depth or deep chemical peeling (with fruit or trichloroacetic acid, retinol, phenol, etc.). Complex effects of peeling during photoaging include exfoliating effect, whitening, moisturizing effect.

Widely used and various physical methods of action aimed at smoothing the surface of the skin. These methods include microdermabrasion, laser "polishing" of the skin, dermabrasion. In the last years, the procedures of photorejuvenation (LHE-meperopia) are becoming very popular, the essence of which lies in the complex effect on the skin of a system of pulsating light and heat energy. An essential advantage of photorejuvenation procedures is their good tolerability, minimal side effects and positive dynamics of dermatological status. In particular, significant improvement in skin turgor and elasticity, appearance of skin texture uniformity, paling and decrease in the number of lentigines, fragmentation and decrease in the number of telangiectasias

An important factor in the prevention of photoaging is active explanatory work among the population, as well as the promotion of photoprotection in the broad sense of this concept. At the same time, modern aesthetic standards give rise to the popularity among different strata of the population of skin pigmentation obtained after exposure to the sun or in the solarium.

It should be emphasized that photoaging is a phenomenon that is partially corrected. This requires a comprehensive approach to the patient and proactive prevention of further damage photos.

Dietology in anti-age therapy

One of the most urgent tasks of modern cosmetology is the fight against premature aging. Currently, many methods of anti-age therapy have been developed. At their carrying out it is impossible to forget, that the food is the major, operating during all life a regulatory factor which influences all metabolic processes of an organism. A huge role is played by nutrition in the processes of detoxification, in the fight against oxidative stress.

First of all, when compiling an anti-age diet, you should follow the principles of rational nutrition. Adequate sex, height, age and body type, body weight, the proper ratio of fat and muscle mass in the composite body composition themselves are important factors in the normal functioning of the body. In this section, it is necessary to exaggerate some aspects of diet therapy, which are specific in terms of anti-age nutrition.

Fighting oxidative stress

It is oxidative stress that leads to the formation of metabolites of female sex hormones that cause irreversible damage to mitochondrial DNA, disrupts the normal functioning of these structures. The greatest danger in this regard is the peroxide oxidation of lipids, whose products are aggressive damaging factors, and consequently - the cause and indicator of aging. To combat oxidative stress, antioxidants should be used - substances that can inhibit processes of free radical oxidation, and also provide the necessary nutrients to its own antioxidant system. Of the necessary nutrients should be noted iron, copper, manganese, glutathione, selenium, acetylcysteine. They take part in the work of antioxidant enzymes as cofactors. For example, copper and zinc are necessary for superoxide dismutase, iron for catalase. Antioxidant therapy can be carried out in combination - both externally (in the form of cosmetic agents) and orally. Among the most important antioxidants, the leaders are fat-soluble (alpha-tocopherol and carotenoids). Their function is to protect the basic structural components of biological membranes. There are also water-soluble antioxidants that fulfill their role in the cytoplasm of the cell or in the blood plasma, i.e., inactivating free radicals in the aquatic environment.

Alpha-tocopherol - (vitamin E) is a fat-soluble antioxidant. It inhibits the peroxidation of unsaturated fatty acids that make up the cell membranes. It restores vitamin A and ubiquinone (coenzyme Q). It has an anti-atherogenic effect. It exists in the form of a pharmacological preparation, is present in a variety of cosmeceutical products. The daily need is 15 mg. Many food products contain it in significant quantities. Therefore, in the diet should be present: vegetable oil, cereals, soybeans, legumes, seafood.

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) reduces the rate of oxidation of very low density lipoproteins, promotes the transport of vitamins A and E, inhibits atherogenesis, participates in the synthesis of corticosteroids and serotonin, promotes the synthesis of collagen from procollagen, the synthesis of thyroid hormones, the absorption of iron and calcium from the intestine. The daily requirement is 70-100 mg. The main food sources of the vitamin are hips, sweet peppers, berries, fruits, greens, cabbage.

Potentiate the antioxidant effect of ascorbic acid bioflavonoids and polyphenols (vitamin P), existing in water and fat-soluble form. These substances have a capillary-strengthening effect, neutralize carcinogenic substances, have a calming effect. The daily requirement is 25 mg. To enrich with bioflavonoids, you need to use chokeberry, citrus, rhubarb, dog rose, green tea, red wine (10 times more vitamin P in it than green tea), beets, apples, buckwheat, rice, turmeric, chocolate, olives.

Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q) - a powerful antioxidant. The chemical structure is close to tocopherol. Protects against free radicals of DNA molecules and cell membranes. Often found in the composition of cosmeceutical drugs and its application is certainly justified.

It should be remembered that the most pronounced effect of vitamin micro- and macronutrients have either in the form of natural compounds or in chelate forms of pharmacological preparations. Enriching the diet with the help of pharmacological agents, it is advisable to abandon the use of vigamino-mineral complexes with a long shelf life (over 2 years), since they contain a significant amount of stabilizers. Do not also prefer drugs containing too many vitamins and minerals, due to possible phenomena of antagonism between the components of the drug.

All of the above aspects of anti-age influences are certainly important. However, one should not forget about hormone replacement therapy of patients during menopausal disorders. It is proved that the use of HRT for 3 months leads to a thickening of the germinal layer of the epidermis, a longer application - to an increase in the mass of collagen. It is important to prescribe HRT no later than 2 years after menopause. Phytoestrogens can also be used, but their effect is ambiguous. It all depends on the concentration in the blood of endogenous hormones. Phyto-analogues, certainly, are weaker than endogenous hormones, but their connection with receptors is stronger. From this it follows that phytoestrogens have a paradoxical, anti-estrogenic effect in hyperestrogenemia. This is another demanded sphere of their application. Phytoestrogens are used to prevent and treat premenstrual syndrome, mastopathy, breast tumors. In hypoestrogenic conditions, phytoestrogens exert an estrogen-positive effect. This is the "two-faced" effect of this group of substances. Phytoestrogens also have an antioxidant effect, protecting against oxidation of LDL. Phytoestrogens are divided into two large groups - isoflavones and lignans. Isoflavones prevail in soybeans, beans, lentils, garnets, red clover, dates, cabbage. The precursors of lignans are contained in the outer layer of nuts. Under the action of the microflora of the intestine, their transformation into active forms takes place. Lignans and isoflavones have an antiandrogenic effect, therefore they are used in the treatment of oily skin, acne, androgenic alopecia. To solve the problems of involuntary skin changes, the first choice drugs are cosmeceuticals containing phytoestrogens. For their endogenous effect, the use of soy and other endogenous plants in human nutrition is, unfortunately, not enough. Too much isoflavones are lost during industrial processing. Therefore, oral preparations containing these substances have now been developed. The therapeutic dose of soy isoflavones - 90-180 mg per day, supporting - 45-90 mg.

Another topical stage of the anti-aging diet is nutrition, leveling the adverse effects of external factors. For example, the fight against the intake of radionuclides in the body. These substances are contained in phosphorus fertilizers, fall on the surface of the soil with sediments. The soil-plant migrate along the chain. Particularly easily accumulate radionuclides in poor K, Ca, Na, and P soils. Free from contamination by radionuclides, artesian and many other groundwater isolated from the surface of the earth. Many radionuclides can contain grains, milk, vegetables, fruits. Eliminate such pollution is not difficult. Raw foods should be thoroughly washed (preferably in water with an alkalinizing component) and cleaned. Root crops should be cut at 1.5 cm top of the head, the fruit - remove the peel, the cabbage - remove the top leaves and remove the stump. Boiling allows you to remove up to 50% of radionuclides. When cooking the meat, the first broth is drained, mushrooms - soaked boil. They bind and remove from the body radionuclides flavonoids, gallates, pectin substances. The most accessible of them are pectins. The daily dose - 8-15 g. Applied with meals and at night. It is advisable to enrich the diet with fluoride, selenium, calcium, iodine - this will increase the overall resistance of the body.

Nutrition when exposed to chemical toxins

Residents of megacities are constantly receiving increased doses of chemicals from the contamination of water, soil, air. Food has a significant effect on the breakdown of toxic substances and their removal from the body. What can you advise a resident of a big city? It is necessary to clean the drinking water with the help of bost filters. It is also important to remember that protein deficiency in food reduces the detoxification function of the liver. The protein should contain amino acids such as methionine and cysteine. Vegetable oils containing polyunsaturated fatty acids are also necessary. From carbohydrates, glucuronic acid is formed, which reacts with conjugation with toxins and their decay products. In general, the orientation of the diet should be protein-carbohydrate. Do not forget the toxin-binding role of dietary fiber. It is necessary to enrich with vitamins A, E, C, niacin, vitamins B1, B2, B6.

In the cycle of time and events of life, a person often does not have time to look more closely at the chemical composition of those foods that he buys. Therefore, often in the diet there is an abundance of preservatives, stabilizers, dyes, which make the product fragrant, visually appealing. Often, glancing at the label, we see a lot of symbols "E" with a variety of figures. In this you need to be able to understand. The food additives of natural origin include: E 330 - citric acid, E 300 - vitamin C, E 375 - niacin, E ЗбЗ - succinic acid, E 334 - tartaric acid, Е 260 - acetic acid. In moderate doses, they are absolutely safe. Caution should be given to E 621 - sodium glutamate. This substance is a taste enhancer and is used very often. Despite the fact that it is a salt of glutamic acid, its excess leads to "Chinese restaurant syndrome" - weakness, headache, nausea, tachycardia, chest pains, drowsiness, face erythema. Prohibited to use in Ukraine and Russia: E 908, E 957, E 622, E 520, E 505, E 475, E 408, E 375, E 344, E 308, E 303, E 252, E 240, E 213, E 2b0, E 140, E 123. It becomes obvious that the labels of modern foodstuffs should certainly be read.

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