Cosmetic preparations for fixing hair into a hairstyle

Foam, solution, gel, aerosol (spray) are used to fix hair into a hairstyle. The oldest means of fixing hair were various gels of natural origin, containing tragacanth and other ingredients. In addition, various oils were previously used. Currently, various synthetic polymers are widely used (for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone). These compounds give shape to the hairstyle without polluting the hair. Some companies add ingredients that have a conditioning, antistatic effect (for example, cationic detergents). Various hair styling foams are considered the least damaging, and sprays are the most damaging. In addition, sprays are currently becoming less popular due to the risk of damaging the ozone layer of the atmosphere.

Hair curling preparations

Permanent curling was created over 70 years ago to change the shape of hair (make it wavy) and keep it for a long time, despite washing. The technology and means used for this type of curling are constantly being modified. Regardless of the method, this process usually includes three stages:

1. Softening of hair due to physical or chemical factors,
2. Giving hair a new shape.
3. Securing the new hair shape.

Softening hair. The oldest method of softening hair is to treat it with water or steam (the so-called "steam" perm). The essence of the process is to destroy the hydrogen bonds between the polypeptides in the hair keratin molecules, which creates a temporary effect of changing the shape, achieved by using "curlers". However, with increased humidity of the surrounding air and after contact with water, the hair acquires its previous structure. The method using ammonia solution and sodium bisulfite or triethanolamine in combination with high temperature (the so-called "hot" perm) is also outdated. Previously, perm methods were also popular, the essence of which was reduced to a chemical isothermal reaction. These methods are now practically not used, since they significantly damage the hair and require special training of the hairdresser.

Since 1945, "cold" chemical perm has been widely used. The process of softening hair during cold perm is provided by thioglycolates, which are capable of destroying disulfide bonds in the keratin molecule. Currently, solutions containing thioglycolic acid and ammonium or monoethanolamine are used. In recent years, perm based on glyceryl monothioglycolate has become popular, which has proven to be softer and can be recommended for people with dry and bleached hair. It should be emphasized that thioglycolates are quite strong sensitizers. They are the most common cause of allergic dermatitis, both in hairdressers and in clients.

The change in shape is achieved using "curlers" of different diameters. When using "curlers" of a large diameter, the curl lasts for several weeks, while those of a small diameter last from 4 to 12 months. When perming, the softening solution is kept on the hair for no more than 20 minutes. It has been shown that the effect of the curl does not increase with increasing exposure time, while the damage to the hair increases significantly. The hair is then treated with a neutralizing solution, which fixes the new shape.

Fixing the resulting hair shape is usually done with hydrogen peroxide, which also has an aggressive effect on hair. Home perm kits usually include softer neutralizing solutions of the following salts: sodium tetraborate, sodium tetracarbonate, sodium bromate, potassium bromate, etc.

People of the Negroid race often use various means and methods for straightening hair. Their essence is basically similar to a perm. Men with short hair also use viscous fatty bases (pomade) for mechanical straightening of hair and gluing it together.

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