Cosmetic preparations for fixing hair in a hairdo

For the purpose of fixing the hair in the hair, the forms of foam, solution, gel, aerosol (spray) are used. The oldest means for fixing hair were various naturally occurring gels containing tragacanth and other ingredients. In addition, various oils were previously used. At present, various synthetic polymers (for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone) are widely distributed. It is these compounds that give shape to the hairstyle, without contaminating the hair. Some companies add ingredients that have a conditioning, antistatic effect (for example, cationic detergents). The least damaging are the various foams for styling hair, most - sprays. In addition, sprays are now becoming less popular due to the danger of damage to the ozone layer of the atmosphere.

Preparations for a wave of hair

A permanent wave was created more than 70 years ago in order to change the shape of the hair (make them wavy), and long to keep it, despite washing. The technology and tools used for this kind of waving are constantly being modified. Regardless of the methodology, this process usually involves three stages:

1. Softening of hair under the influence of physical or chemical factors,
2. Giving the hair a new shape.
3. Fastening a new form of hair.

Hair softening. The oldest method of softening the hair is to treat them with water or steam (the so-called "steam" wave). The essence of the process is the destruction of hydrogen bonds between the polypeptides in the hair keratin molecules, which creates a temporary effect of the shape change, achieved using the "curler". However, with increased humidity of the surrounding air and after contact with water, the hair gets the same structure. Obsolete is also the way in which a solution of ammonia and sodium bisulfite or triethanolamine was used in combination with the action of high temperature (the so-called "hot" perm). Earlier there were also popular methods of curling, the essence of which was reduced to chemical isothermal reaction. These methods are now almost not used, because they significantly damage the hair and require special preparation for the hairdresser.

Since 1945, the cold chemical perm was widely used. The process of softening hair with a cold wave is provided by thioglycolates, which are capable of breaking disulfide bonds in the keratin molecule. At present, solutions containing thioglycolic acid and ammonium or monoethanolamine are used. In recent years, a perm on the basis of glyceryl monothioglycolate has gained popularity, which turned out to be softer and can be recommended for people with dry and discolored hair. It should be emphasized that thioglycolates are quite strong sensitizers. They are the most frequent cause of allergic dermatitis, both for hairdressers and clients.

Change of shape is achieved with the help of "curlers" of different diameters. When using a "curler" of large diameter, the wave is retained for several weeks, the small diameter is from 4 to 12 months. With a perm, the softening solution is kept on the hair for no more than 20 minutes. It is shown that the effect of waving is not enhanced by increasing the exposure time, and the damage to the hair is substantially increased. In the future, the hair is treated with a neutralizing solution, which fixes the new form.

The fixation of the obtained form of hair is usually carried out with the help of hydrogen peroxide, which also acts aggressively on the hair. In kits for chemical curling at home, usually include softer neutralizing solutions of the following salts: sodium tetraborate, sodium tetracarbonate, sodium bromate, potassium bromate, etc.

Negro people often use a variety of means and methods for straightening hair. Their essence, basically, is similar to a chemical wave. Men with short hair also use a viscous fat base (pomade) to mechanically straighten hair and glue them together.

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