Medical expert of the article
New publications
Cosmetic components: Modulators
Last reviewed: 04.07.2025
All iLive content is medically reviewed or fact checked to ensure as much factual accuracy as possible.
We have strict sourcing guidelines and only link to reputable media sites, academic research institutions and, whenever possible, medically peer reviewed studies. Note that the numbers in parentheses ([1], [2], etc.) are clickable links to these studies.
If you feel that any of our content is inaccurate, out-of-date, or otherwise questionable, please select it and press Ctrl + Enter.
Recently, cosmetics have been increasingly interfering with the processes occurring in the skin, and have moved from preventive action to cell therapy. Initially, cell therapy was the name given to the use of tissue extracts and cells (blood serum, embryonic tissue, sperm, etc.) in cosmetology. However, gradually this term came to be used for any action that changes the functioning of skin cells. With the help of modulators, it is possible to regulate important processes occurring in the epidermis, and even influence the condition of the dermis.
The following types of modulators can be found in modern cosmetics:
- Cell division stimulants - activate the division of basal layer cells, thereby accelerating skin renewal.
- Differentiation modulators. An epidermal cell changes greatly as it grows. This change is called differentiation. As it moves toward the skin surface, the cell must have time to turn into a strong enough horny scale, just as a student must have time to get a high school diploma in 10 years. Cell differentiation disorders occur under the influence of various reasons (UV radiation, stress, carcinogens, etc.). Then, repeater cells "get stuck" in the epidermis, lagging behind their fellows. These cells are dangerous for the skin, because they gradually accumulate damage, begin to have a negative effect on other cells, and can even degenerate into tumor cells. Differentiation modulators act on cells like a rod on lazy students, forcing them to remember their purpose and return to the righteous path.
- Immunomodulators - change the speed and direction of immune reactions of the skin. They are used to combat allergic dermatitis and inflammatory skin diseases. Regulators of the synthesis of biological molecules - encourage skin cells to increase the synthesis of vital molecules or, conversely, give them a signal to reduce the rate of synthesis. More often used are collagen synthesis stimulants (vitamin C, fruit acids) and sebum production regulators (antiandrogens, phytoestrogens).
Some active additives are difficult to classify into any one group. For example, vitamin C not only replenishes the deficiency, but also protects the skin from free radicals and modulates collagen synthesis, zinc is necessary for the functioning of antioxidant enzymes and regulates sebum production, vitamin A affects the division and differentiation of skin cells, etc.
[