The mechanism of action of a component of creams against wrinkles is deciphered
Last reviewed: 16.10.2021
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A group of scientists at the University of California, Davis and Peking University deciphered the mechanism of action of alpha hydroxyl acids (alpha hydroxyl acids, ANA), a key component of chemical cosmetic peels and creams to reduce wrinkles. Understanding the underlying processes will help in the development of more effective cosmetics, as well as drugs for the treatment of skin diseases and analgesics.
The results of the study of American and Chinese scientists published in the journal The Journal of Biological Chemistry.
Alpha hydroxyl acids belong to the group of weak acids, usually obtained from natural sources - sugar cane, sour milk, apples and citrus fruits. They are well known in cosmetology for their ability to improve the appearance and texture of the skin. However, before this study, little was known about how in fact these substances contribute to peeling off the cells of the uppermost layer of the skin - dead keratinocytes - and exposing the layer of young cells, what actually caused the visual anti-aging effect.
One of the ion channels, the so-called transient receptor potential vanilloid 3 (TRPV3), located in the keratinocyte membrane, was in the center of attention of the scientists. As shown by other studies, this channel plays an important role in the normal physiology of the skin and its temperature sensitivity.
As a result of a series of experiments in which the membrane electric currents of exposed cells were recorded, the researchers developed a model describing how glycolic acid (the smallest and most bioavailable alpha hydroxy acid) is absorbed by keratinocytes and generates free protons, creating an acidic cell inside the cell Wednesday. High acidity activates the TRPV3 ion channel, opening it, and allows calcium ions to freely enter the cell. And as through the open TRPV3 protons enter the cell, the process becomes self-sustaining. As a result of the accumulation of excess calcium ions, the cell dies and then flakes.
Ionic channels of TRPV3 are found not only in the skin, but also in many other parts of the nervous system. As already noted, they are sensitive not only to the acidity of the medium, but also to temperature. The authors of the study suggest that TRPV3 can perform a number of important physiological functions, including pain management.
Recently, Chinese scientists concluded that the mutation in TRPV3 underlies the syndrome of Olmsted - a rare hereditary disease, which is characterized by severe itching and palmar-plantar keratodermia in the form of massive horny layers. Given these data, the TRPV3 can probably be seen as the target of not only cosmetic products, but also medicines for the anesthesia and treatment of skin diseases.