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The mechanism of action of a component of anti-wrinkle creams has been deciphered
Last reviewed: 01.07.2025
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A team of scientists from the University of California, Davis and Peking University have deciphered the mechanism of action of alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA), a key component of chemical cosmetic peels and wrinkle-reducing creams. Understanding the processes underlying their action will help in developing more effective cosmetics, as well as drugs for the treatment of skin diseases and analgesics.
The results of the study by American and Chinese scientists were published in The Journal of Biological Chemistry.
Alpha hydroxy acids are a group of weak acids typically derived from natural sources such as sugar cane, yogurt, apples, and citrus fruits. They are well known in the cosmetic industry for their ability to improve the appearance and texture of skin. However, until this study, little was known about how these substances actually help slough off the topmost layer of skin cells—dead keratinocytes—to reveal the younger layer of cells that produces the visible anti-aging effect.
The focus of the scientists was on one of the ion channels, the so-called transient receptor potential vanilloid 3 (TRPV3), located in the membrane of keratinocytes. As other studies show, this channel plays an important role in the normal physiology of the skin and its temperature sensitivity.
Through a series of experiments recording the membrane electrical currents of cells exposed to AHA, the researchers developed a model describing how glycolic acid (the smallest and most bioavailable alpha hydroxy acid) is taken up by keratinocytes and generates free protons, creating an acidic environment inside the cells. High acidity activates the TRPV3 ion channel, opening it and allowing calcium ions to freely enter the cell. And since protons also begin to enter the cell through the open TRPV3, the process becomes self-sustaining. As a result of the accumulation of excess calcium ions, the cell dies and then peels off.
TRPV3 ion channels are found not only in the skin, but also in many other parts of the nervous system. As already noted, they are sensitive not only to the acidity of the environment, but also to temperature. The authors of the study suggest that TRPV3 can perform a number of important physiological functions, including pain control.
Recently, Chinese scientists have concluded that a mutation in TRPV3 underlies Olmsted syndrome, a rare hereditary disorder characterized by severe itching and palmoplantar keratoderma in the form of massive horny deposits. Given these findings, TRPV3 may be a target not only for cosmetics, but also for drugs for pain relief and the treatment of skin diseases.